SwisherSweets
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i will review the original supercropping technique before moving on. suppercropping is a growing metheod that makes it possible to have a single plant yield as much as two, without a significant increase in the amount of time it takes to grow. having fewer, larger plants is easier for the grower and, in a world where law-enforcement agencies punish according to the number of plants rather than the yield, much safer. 
There are several steps to supercropping. First there is topping. By removing the top shoot you can encourage two new shoots to grow in its place. You can also pinch the taller braches as they grow, to significantly increase the number of budding sites on the plant. This will encourage the plant to bush out. You must provide more light to nourish the increased vegetation you are encouraging. A thick canopy of vegetation that doesn't get enough light to support photosynthesis can hamper progress rather than increase it.
The next step is to train the braches to grow away from the center of the plant, opening space for light to reach the lower buds. In the last suppercropping article, I detailed a time-consuming program to bend young brach tips so they point straight down, then strapping them in place with twist-ties. This method can be tricky because it's easy to snap the branches, but it opens the center of the plant to more light, increases space between shoots and minimizes height-all very good things to gain, but it takes some practice to get the straps to stay in place.
My technique goes way begond simply training and topping. Start with the suppercropping technique, but add a radical twist. Carefully break or in the case of seedlings, bruise the inner hurd, without damaging the outer stalk. Breaking the inner hurd initiates growth.
Common sense tells you that this would block the flow of nutrients through the stalk. the exact oppisite is true. You will see the branches grow thicker and stronger. Now these branches can pump more juice up and down the plant, to not only hold the weight of large buds, but also speed up growth. this technique is not new at all having been used for years on plants from tomatoes to apple trees.
You can begin the treatments when the plants are just seedlings. Gently apply pressure and pinch the stem. Rotate your fingures 90 degrees and pinch again. Young plants and shoots will sometimes droop over slightly. This is normal and they will return to normal within 24 hours. Wait untill younge plants double their size before a second treatment. Now use two hands to manipulate several points on the stalk, leaving rought 3/4"-1" between applications. Wait for the plant to double its size again before you give it a third treatment.
When the plants mature, intensify the treatments. Using two hands, slowly twist the stalk in opposite directions untill you feel a snap. You will distinctly hear it and feel it. When you release the branch, there is no visible damage and the branch will be as straight as it was before you treated it. That snap was the inner hurd breaking, while the much tougher outer hurd remains undamaged. I suggest doing this every 3/4-1" on all braches and shoots, from bottom to top. Remember that slight dropping is normal and will also help open the plant up to more light. After a couple of days is a good time to tie your plants/branches down, if you desire to train them.
Give them a week of two, until they double in size again, and then resume treatments. Try to time it so you can give them two or three treatments before serious budset occurs. At this time manipulations will interfere with bud production. Remember that these girls are going to take a little longer, and will need a lot more water and mayber a little more nutrients during peak bud growth.
now the issue becomes "retooling" your garden, so to speak. You must vegetate your plants longer to fully exploit this "bending and breaking" technique. The exact amount of time depends on your growing style.
Enjoy
There are several steps to supercropping. First there is topping. By removing the top shoot you can encourage two new shoots to grow in its place. You can also pinch the taller braches as they grow, to significantly increase the number of budding sites on the plant. This will encourage the plant to bush out. You must provide more light to nourish the increased vegetation you are encouraging. A thick canopy of vegetation that doesn't get enough light to support photosynthesis can hamper progress rather than increase it.
The next step is to train the braches to grow away from the center of the plant, opening space for light to reach the lower buds. In the last suppercropping article, I detailed a time-consuming program to bend young brach tips so they point straight down, then strapping them in place with twist-ties. This method can be tricky because it's easy to snap the branches, but it opens the center of the plant to more light, increases space between shoots and minimizes height-all very good things to gain, but it takes some practice to get the straps to stay in place.
My technique goes way begond simply training and topping. Start with the suppercropping technique, but add a radical twist. Carefully break or in the case of seedlings, bruise the inner hurd, without damaging the outer stalk. Breaking the inner hurd initiates growth.
Common sense tells you that this would block the flow of nutrients through the stalk. the exact oppisite is true. You will see the branches grow thicker and stronger. Now these branches can pump more juice up and down the plant, to not only hold the weight of large buds, but also speed up growth. this technique is not new at all having been used for years on plants from tomatoes to apple trees.
You can begin the treatments when the plants are just seedlings. Gently apply pressure and pinch the stem. Rotate your fingures 90 degrees and pinch again. Young plants and shoots will sometimes droop over slightly. This is normal and they will return to normal within 24 hours. Wait untill younge plants double their size before a second treatment. Now use two hands to manipulate several points on the stalk, leaving rought 3/4"-1" between applications. Wait for the plant to double its size again before you give it a third treatment.
When the plants mature, intensify the treatments. Using two hands, slowly twist the stalk in opposite directions untill you feel a snap. You will distinctly hear it and feel it. When you release the branch, there is no visible damage and the branch will be as straight as it was before you treated it. That snap was the inner hurd breaking, while the much tougher outer hurd remains undamaged. I suggest doing this every 3/4-1" on all braches and shoots, from bottom to top. Remember that slight dropping is normal and will also help open the plant up to more light. After a couple of days is a good time to tie your plants/branches down, if you desire to train them.
Give them a week of two, until they double in size again, and then resume treatments. Try to time it so you can give them two or three treatments before serious budset occurs. At this time manipulations will interfere with bud production. Remember that these girls are going to take a little longer, and will need a lot more water and mayber a little more nutrients during peak bud growth.
now the issue becomes "retooling" your garden, so to speak. You must vegetate your plants longer to fully exploit this "bending and breaking" technique. The exact amount of time depends on your growing style.
Enjoy
