Transitioning from 600-watt HPS to 1000-watt

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Auburn1985

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2013
Messages
479
Reaction score
14
My flowering room is 3'8" x 3'8" x 8. I currently use a 600-watt HPS, with no heat management issues at all. I was kinda thinking about trying a 1000-watt HPS.

Does a 1000-watt HPS generate a lot more heat that a 600-watt? I know it will generate more heat; but a lot more?

Would the additional lumens per square foot in that space be overkill/waste?
 
Plants can only utilize so much light. I personally have found that when I go over 7500 lumens per sq ft, I don't get any better yield. I think that without CO2 enhancement, that is about all my plants can utilize. For instance, I get no better growth running 2 600W in my space than I do running a single 1000W. Your results could differ from mine...
 
The Hemp Goddess said:
Plants can only utilize so much light. I personally have found that when I go over 7500 lumens per sq ft, I don't get any better yield. I think that without CO2 enhancement, that is about all my plants can utilize. For instance, I get no better growth running 2 600W in my space than I do running a single 1000W. Your results could differ from mine...

How many square feet is your flower room? Mine is about 13.5 square feet. According to a lot of info I read, I'm in the "middle" of 600-watt and 1000-watt HPS...I'm trying to figure if a 1000-watt HPS would be worth the extra cost and heat...
 
My flowering room is 3 x 6.5--19.5 sq ft. If you get a 1000W, I would recommend a digital dimmable ballast. If the 1000W proves too much, you can kick it down to 750 watts. Also, eventually most of us want to make our spaces larger.
 
IMO giving you approx 51 watts per sq foot is perfect
In full outdoor sun, you can safely assume about 100 watts of solar energy per square foot. If you assume 12 hours of sun per day
 
Plants "see" light differently than human beings do. As a result, lumens, lux or footcandles should not be used to measure light for plant growth lumens are for us to see not measure for plants , plants do not use lumens

.sunmastergrowlamps.com/SunmLightandPlants.
 
If you get a 1000 watt dimmable ballast you'll be good to go!
 
Get the dimmable ballest this time next yr you'll be building a bigger flowering room. It's in your stars Auburn1985

DrFever the reason we use Lumens is the lumen are a measurement of all visible light spectrum. Lumen/lux meters are easy to get. The visible and invisible spectrometer is hard to find. The stronger the lumen strength the high the spectrum the plant needs. By using the different gasses in the bulbs(HPS,MH,CMH,CFL.etc) we and giving the plants the spectrum of light best for their grow stage.
 
ozzydiodude said:
Get the dimmable ballest this time next yr you'll be building a bigger flowering room. It's in your stars Auburn1985

DrFever the reason we use Lumens is the lumen are a measurement of all visible light spectrum. Lumen/lux meters are easy to get. The visible and invisible spectrometer is hard to find. The stronger the lumen strength the high the spectrum the plant needs. By using the different gasses in the bulbs(HPS,MH,CMH,CFL.etc) we and giving the plants the spectrum of light best for their grow stage.

:yeahthat:

The things with using watts is that the amount of lumens that different types of lights produce per watt varies widely. While 51 watts of HPS per sq ft may be fine, 51 watts of CFL light is 1/2 (or less) lumens than the HPS.
 
Lumens are a way of measuring light density. The units that lumens are actually measured in is equal to the number of candles it would take to light a specific area. It’s pretty old-school, but one lumen actually equals one foot-candle (or, more specifically, it is one candle’s worth of light per square foot of surface when that candle is held one foot away). Similarly, a lux would be one meter-candle (or one candle of light per square meter held one foot away). Saving the math, 1 lumen = 10 lux. However, one important distinction between the two terms needs to made; while lumens are a way to measure light energy leaving the source or bulb (which may also be known as flux), lux is a term generally reserved for indicating the amount of light energy actually reaching a given surface or leaf (and this is also known as illumination).
Basically, if you have one lumen shining on one square foot at a height of one-foot from above, then at two-feet from above that lumen is now only a quarter of a lumen (1/4), because that single lumen will diminish by traveling a greater distance and is now also spread out over a greater area.
Remember, a light bulb shines 360 degrees around. If your HPS puts out 140,000 lumens, that’s 140,000 lumens in all directions. If you manage to get 10 percent of that on your garden, that’s only 14,000 lumens. Then consider the distance of you lamp and the Inverse Square Law, you may only be getting 2,000 of your 140,000 lumens onto your garden!
 
TOA,,how do you cool your space with your HPS Vert? Cool tubes wouldnt work would it?Just curious,,cause I have heard that Vert Grows are better. Just not sure about if it causes more of a heat problem cause ya cant use Ventahoods.
 
i dunno maybe its just me, but vertical bulbs seem counter intuitive. wouldn't a vertical bulb create more reflective light rather then direct light. i guess a google search is in order.

EDIT: i don't think "reflective" is the right term. refracted? light that has bounced off something first. ugh, i'm confusing myself, google time

:48:
 
Guys I dont run vert now....for it to be worth it for me I would have to run several and I dont have the room now. If you set the bulbs stag you can reap great yeilds.


You can cooltube vert but ive only bare bulbed.... lots of a/c. You can bare bulb sealed rooms running co2 and kill yields. Nor cal runs air cooled hoods I believe but im pretty sure he has toyed with vert too.

Leaning shrubs...im pretture sure I got some pics somewhere...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top