Whats up with this plant?

Brouli

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what is the distance between plant and light
 

Brouli

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and ph is ok ??
how is temp in your grow room ??
 

stunzeed

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IMHO, It is nute lock out due to ph, I just had this problem and your pics look like they could be of my plants. Good luck.

Stunzeed..
 

Brouli

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hmmmmm you maybe right stunzeed , if yes its look like begining so you beter fix them quick
 

Elephant Man

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I will give ya my best guess...looks like micro deficiency...probably from high ph lockout.

An epsom or cal-mag foliar could temporarily fix the problem, but I bet your water is too alkaline.
 

Elephant Man

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Well...if your water's ph is too high, flushing probably won't help. Try and get a ph tester, for soil or water...whatever you can get. It is possible to grow without one, but not very easy for new growers.

See if you can find out something about your water source...if you are on city water, you can call them...or your closest hydro shop might have an idea of water quality in your area. Allowing it to sit, or aerating it for 24 hours will remove some chlorine...even a cheapo Brita pitcher filter is better than nothing.

If you really are determined to do without checking ph, you can try 'locking' your soil ph in by mixing in 1-3 tsp per gallon of dolomitic lime into the surface of your soil. I am just guessing your ph is probably too high, you could probably try lowering it a little with an acidic source. Some readily available safe sources of ph down are lemon juice and apple cider vinegar...but this is coming from an organics freak...most people use a marketed ph adjuster like GH.

Both of those suggestions are a shot in the dark without a meter, or knowing the quality of your water though.
 

Elephant Man

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Not familiar with Hyponex but some time release ferts in soils will make situations worse with flushing, just activates the ferts faster. I never flush, so don't believe that it is the cure all for everything. I would wait until you can check your water, or only use distilled till then. Depending on your tester, you may have to water for drainage to check soil ph, so maybe give her a bit to dry out between now and then
 

Elephant Man

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StinkBud said:
Flushing is just normal watering without feeding, how would that activate the ferts faster?
Flushing at the end of harvest is normal watering without feeding, flushing soil to fix a problem is 3 gallons of water per each one gallon of medium.
 

trillions of atoms

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get a ph meter- and some ph up and down...test your waters ph- adjust if needed, test the ph in the soil adjujst nutrient/water somution to fit its needs THEN you water-

you cant just water more with unbalnced ph and expect it to fix itself,IME.
 

Dada

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No -- nute lockout that is due to improper ph simply means that the plant cannot take in the nutrients that it needs because the ph is wrong and not because there is a physical barrier of salts around the roots. So, when you gave your plant a feeding a while back, it probably really needed those nutrients. However, because of improper ph, it couldn't absorb them. So, it was almost as if you hadn't fed them at all and they may be, well, starving. If you adjust your ph and *then* feed, your plant will be able to absorb all those goodies.

People usually flush because they overnuted and they are trying to use plain water to get some of those nutes out of the soil (or out of the res if hydro) and to let the plant take in nothing but plain water for a short time. You also flush a couple of weeks before it is time to chop your plants down because you don't want any of the off flavors in your smoke that a bunch of nutrients can leave behind. After that flush, you usually wouldn't use any nutrients again until the end of the grow -- just plain water as needed.
 

Elephant Man

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Flushing is a term that has often been used to describe alot of things. Flushing as a fix, is pretty much just an attempt to clear an overfertilization problem, and it requires 3 gallons of water per one gallon of soil to be done properly. It has been said that it will not harm a plant, but it will temporarily rob roots of oxygen, unless you are growing soilless. Flushing at the end of harvest is quite different, some say it is just as you said, to remove excess ferts from soil...others say it is just giving the plant an opportunity to use up those excess ferts in the soil...or stored in the leaves.

I grow strictly by organics, and never use either method...in fact, some of my containers do not even have drainage, but I would definately not recommend this method to new growers. But it does show that flushing is not a necessary process in growing MJ.
 

Elephant Man

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StinkBud said:
Thanks for clearing that up. I've never contemplated dumping 3 gallons of water into my pots, so it seemed a bit odd. As you say, it wouldn't be a good idea turning your medium into a swimming pool, however regular flushing would help him, would it not? Wouldn't a week with just water help reduce his nutrient levels in his soil without torturing his plants?
Ummm...with chemical or salt-based ferts...absolutely. I have mixed feelings on whether or not it is necessary, better IMO not to overfeed and have to flush. Some growers that I hold in the highest respect swear by flushing and say the plants like it...if your soil aeration is high (perlite, soilless, etc,) then I don't really think it is possible to drown the roots.

As far as harvet 'flush', organics kind of changes everything. I use an amended soilmix and only feed 2 or 3 times in plants life, the food is in the soil, and since I reuse my soil...no sense in washing good ferts away. ;)
But, this brings up the long argued topic of why we are flushing in the first place...some say the plant stores too much...others say to rid of salts, I don't really know. But IMO I would have to say that any residual harshness is from excess chemical ferts, because I don't flush and my plants don't yellow very much before harvest either and taste great. :ccc: Which is all that really matters anyway.
 
A

Agent Orange

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to help with gnats, I put a bowl of soapy water in my grow room. the bugs hit the water, get stuck, drown and die..seems to be working well because there's about 10 deadEDIT FOR POTTY MOUTH :mad: in there and I don't see any flying around my plants anymore
 

Hick

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GNATS...it's the larvae in the soil that cause damage. Trapping the live adults will have little effect, without elimination/prevention actions toward the source.
 
T

THE BROTHER'S GRUNT

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Hick said:
GNATS...it's the larvae in the soil that cause damage. Trapping the live adults will have little effect, without elimination/prevention actions toward the source.
Hick is 100% right trust me. We just had a case of these SOB's so bad they were everywhere. You can kill hundreds of them and thousands more will come back. :mad: Got some sand and we are no longer seeing them. Hey Hick i love your edit up there. :p
 

Elephant Man

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Congratulations for getting her through.:aok: Could have been alot of things going on bro, who knows...so many variables...

Of the top of my head sometimes newly mixed soil has to 'pop' before it settles in to a reasonable ph and I've seen seedlings twist and complain but they pull through.

I am learning more and more as I try to do this diagnosing thing that it really is hard to weigh all of someone's variables while squinting at some pics. I do alot of diagnosing by feeling the leaves and stuff and we can only do our best to offer solutions, but a definitive answer is tough. Soil ph is way easier to maintain than hydro, and now you have your pen, you will soon see you need not concern yourself with it at all...unless there is a problem.
 

stunzeed

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You can go to the aquarium store and get a water PH tester for fairly cheap. Also they should sell PH up and PH down so you can get it right. I would have to say IMHO that it sounds like more than N is getting locked out. Updated pics may help for a diagnosis. Good luck!!!!


Stunzeed..
 

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