Thread: Soil Mixes
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:37 PM   #29
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Default TLO Mix 2011 Supernatural Version 2.1 BY: THE REV

TLO Mix 2011 Supernatural Version 2.1 BY: THE REV

Master Soil-Mix Recipe


2 gal Quality Organic Soil-mix (or good organic recycled soil mix)
2 gal Thoroughly Rinsed Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gal Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gal Earthworm Castings (fresh earthworm castings, and/or fresh compost works too)


1 cup Grow or Bloom ‘Pure’ by Organicare (or 1 cup 5-5-5)
cup Greensand
cup Ground Oyster Shells (1 cup if no crushed oyster shells)
1 cup Crushed Oyster Shells (optional)
cup Dolomite Lime (powdered)
1 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast Acting Dolomite Lime
cup Blood Meal (and/or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 N-P-K if flowering 1/8 cup of each)
cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup un-steamed (granular) Bone Meal (like Whitney Farms brand)
cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 as one good N-P-K example)
cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
cup Kelp Meal
4 cups (heaping) Composted Steer Manure (this inoculates your mix with specialized bacteria and primo organic matter)

cup Azomite granular (add an additional cup greensand if no Azomite)
1 cup Humic Acid Ore granular (like from Down to Earth brand)
1 cup Alfalfa Meal (or 2 cups pellets – make sure pellets are all organic no additives)
cup Rock Phosphate Granular (optional)
1 cup (heaping) organic rice (important for the good fungi in this soil-mix)

This mix should be moistened (Do not get it soaking wet!) with chlorine free water, and turned over every few days, for about 15 days before use. This is what I call “cooking” your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before use, is fine. The nutrients don’t evaporate or anything, so no worries there, per storage over time. If this soil-mix turns out to be too hot (powerful) for some reason, just cut it with good bagged organic soil until you get the strength your environment and genetics demands.

I find cooking mine for about 30 days works the best for me, but I have often used it sooner, like at 2 weeks, and just remember the warmer it is outside wherever the soil-mix is at, the faster the cooking processes will happen. You can use a pH meter (soil pH meter) to tell when it is done cooking too. I wait until it is in the 6.2 – 6.8 range, which normally takes about 2 weeks, because as it kicks off cooking the pH will often be very low, like around 4.9 isn’t uncommon when it first starts to cook.


This soil-mix is meant to be used along with the spike and layer TLO dynamic, and while it is quite capable of standing alone, it works supernaturally when you add the spike and layering dynamics.

Killer Spike Blends...

Spike #1 vegg
cup blood
cup steamed bone meal
cup high N bat/bird guano
cup feather meal
cup kelp meal
1 tablespoon ground oyster shell (optional)

Spike #2 all-purpose/flowering
cup feather meal
cup bulb food 3-8-8
cup soft rock phosphate
cup steamed bone meal
cup high P bat/bird guano
cup kelp meal
1 tablespoon ground oyster shell (optional)


So for the spikes you simply take a dowel or a bamboo pole and stick it into the soil and spin it so it makes a nice hole, then mix like a teaspoon of one of the above recipes with some buffer like castings or soil, and fill the hole. the microlife will colonize these zones before the roots do so when the roots find them they will be like high octane fuel!!

Layering is making different layers of soil, nutes, etc.

Example: I use a mix 1 part of the above soil and 1 part steer manure 1 part casting, 1 part coir and 1 part small perlite all mixed together for my bottom layer, then some of the soil mix gets put on top of that only about a quarter of your pot should be filled, then a small layer of of just plain recycled soil, none of the amendments from the list, your plant will sit on top of that, plain soil up to the top of the root ball then I top off with 2.1 mix and finally mulch.

Also you can use dry nutes in layers, one I use on the very bottom and rite under the mulch layer at 1 tablespoon is,
2 parts blood meal
2 parts high n bird/ bat guano
1 part ground oyster shells

TLO growing takes a lot of N because of the micro farmers, they need N to live, if not enough available N in the soil they will steal it from the plant!

Last edited by ozzydiodude; 07-31-2012 at 04:42 PM.
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