flushing before harvest?

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krazycraker

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how do you flush yur plant before you harvest if your plant is in miracle grow, i was told to flush it 2 weeks before harvest to get rid of chemical taste, but the soil has everything in it, so how do i flush it?:ccc:
 
You flush 3 times the container amount. Meaning if you have a 3 gallon container then you run 9 gallons of water through it and stop giving it nutes. The reason is that it will wash away the chemicals and will remove the harsh taste at harvest. If you dont flush then when you harvest and cure you will have potent weed that taste as harsh as $60/ounce commercial bunk
 
it will wash away that chemical taste, i dont really feed them any nutes figured miracle grow was enough, i did give it nutes a few weeks ago, so i still need to flush it even though all the late release ferts are still in it, will it still have that chemical taste?
 
when ur flushing it the plant uses the last of the nutes in the soil and leaves to survive.but i dunno with miracle grow flush 3 weeks prior to harvest
 
Flushing is a myth, all i know is my weed tastes smooth and tasty without flushing.
I grow hydro and have never had chemical tasting weed, no sparks or any other myth you have ever heard.

I do taper down on nutes as harvest time is near but never did a 2 week flush IMO the last few weeks produce THC the most and there is no need to starve a plant at this stage.

Taste is very strain and cure dependent.
 
heres a tip, when you flush. Flush the plants, then wait 2-3 days before harvest.
if you flush, then immeidately harvest, it will take longer for your buds to dry out.
If u harvest 2-3 days later, the soil should be dry, and the plant will not have so much water in it

Imho flushing is not a myth, you do not want a chemical taste in your buds.
and yes taste is strain related, but you can alter the taste in many ways. Ex. Mollassas...this gives you sweet tasting buds.
Im a big fan of using mollassas. Taste is also soil related, dont you ever smoke bud that is very Earthly tasting??? thats because it was properly flushed, and you almost get a dirt taste...but dont get me wrong, i loooooove the dirt taste of weed. it seems so natural.
 
mollassas? how do you use mollassas? do you just put in the soil, in with water? and how much? also on my first two grows i used miracle grow and did not flush the first was really nice, the second tasted like straight up MG but i figured that had alot to do with my wife pulling the plants and shaking them upside down to get dirt off, shoke all that dirt into buds, i was crushed noooooooo :hairpull: but anyway im going to change evrything over to foxfarm on next grow thanks for help everyone:smoke1:
 
Ekoostik_Hookah said:
Imho flushing is not a myth, you do not want a chemical taste in your buds.

There is no scientific testing of any kind that suggests flushing does anything to the taste of MJ.

If anyone has found any, I'd sure love to read it. So far, all I've ever seen is "He said, She said" type of pro-flushing comments.

It sounds like a good story, but after 40 years of growing weed, I've never seen any difference between flushed weed and weed that hasn't been flushed.

In a real double blind test, I don't think anyone would know the difference.

The same with the Molasses thing. Plants don't absorb sugar. Molasses only creates a balance in the root area that enables it to absorb nutrients more efficiently. None of the human related "sweetness" from the sugars is in any way absorbed by the plant.

Lots of stories like this are handed down from camp fire type talks. Like ghost stories, they are fun, but mostly just stories.

It won't hurt you, it just won't do anything either.

I believe flushing to be one of those stories. It just sounds good to humans. Hey, flush all that nasty taste out with copious amounts of water. It's like rinsing your laundry to get soap out.

Sounds good, but sound is all it is.

Flushing makes humans *feel* good. It doesn't do diddly to the plants.

I'll believe that until someone shows me some double blind testing to back it up. Same thing with the Molasses stuff.
 
i dont know about flushing for sure,
But im possitive that mollassas works, i have tested it my self. my buds always taste better if i use mollassas, and the molassas plants norm. have bigger buds
 
i think i will try the mollassas thing on my next grow ill do one with and one without mollassas and start a journal on them but i dont think that will be till after the holidays:eek:
 
i flushed my first two grows for only 2days and i didnt taste chem.E&F,rockwool.
happy trails
 
If you grow organically, then there really is no need to flush your plants, but if you are using chemically enhanced nutrients, your finished product will taste of chemicals without a flush. I've seen it happen, and the stuff was nasty tasting.

I use molassas during my flower stage, I do think it improves the flavor of the weed. It also helps me produce bigger buds.

Peace...j.b.
 
jb247 said:
If you grow organically, then there really is no need to flush your plants, but if you are using chemically enhanced nutrients, your finished product will taste of chemicals without a flush. I've seen it happen, and the stuff was nasty tasting.

I use molasses during my flower stage, I do think it improves the flavor of the weed. It also helps me produce bigger buds.

Peace...j.b.

Sorry man, I don't believe it. Like I said, when someone finally does a double blind test on it, I'll believe it does something.

I've never flushed a single time. My weed tastes just like anyone else's if they flush or not.

When someone says "I think it", then I don't mind. When someone says something is fact with no real proof, it bothers me.

The "Flushing" thing started from nothing but someones imagination. I've heard a lot about it, but I've seen no side by side, double blind testing that would prove it. Why doesn't someone prove this once in for all?

I mean, I can "say" that I think putting a flashing orange light on my crop for the last twenty days of flowering makes the flowers bigger and makes them taste much, much better, and I can get a great rumor going with a hundred other people swearing it works too, but that's all it is. People "saying" it's true.

I think flushing is one of the biggest, time wasting rumors I've ever seen in the MJ world. It has spread to hundreds of growers that do it just because someone else "says" it's better.

I've had it both ways. I've told people both ways. I've had people swear that the weed I gave them was WAY better than the unflushed weed I gave them next. Neither was flushed. They were both from the same bag.

It's all in your heads!

Peace to you. Do whatever makes you feel good, but please don't try to tell me that it's proven. It isn't.

It's the same thing with the molasses. If I gave any of you a blind test of weeds that had or had not been done with molasses, you wouldn't know which was which.

The only reason you *think* it helps is because you *know* which one has it. Again, it's all in your heads.

Let's start another one; Let's say that putting cigarette ashes in your water will make the weed cure faster. If ten of us say that baloney, within a month, it'll spread to other boards and people will swear to it.

hehe, I love it.

I've been growing weed for more than 40 years. If it's been tried, I've seen it. You wouldn't believe some of the things I've heard over the years.

Good luck to all of you, but remember, until you've tried something in a totally blind test, you really don't know if your mind is being fooled by suggestion.
 
jb247 said:
If you grow organically, then there really is no need to flush your plants, but if you are using chemically enhanced nutrients, your finished product will taste of chemicals without a flush. I've seen it happen, and the stuff was nasty tasting.

I use molassas during my flower stage, I do think it improves the flavor of the weed. It also helps me produce bigger buds.

Peace...j.b.

I agree, if you do grow organically, then ya you dont need to flush.
Organic bud really has the Earthly/dirt flavor, i lovvve it yeaaaa.

Most organic growers dont know that there is a much much better way to set up there organic soil mix, and you would never have to feed, screw with the ph, or do anything. the soil is completly self contained.
In true living organics, it doesnt directly feed the plants whatsoever. Organics simply creates an enviorment in which your soil's fungus,microbes,bacteria, and other beneficial creatres ( The Microlife) can thrive, doing what they do in nature: Feeding the plant's roots exactly what they need.
Using this type of organics increases the yeild and potency, and you can yeild about 80% of what you would, if you grew hydro.. thats alot of bud from indoor soil.

Organic growing is deep man, there alot more involved than people would think.
 
"It's the same thing with the molasses. If I gave any of you a blind test of weeds that had or had not been done with molasses, you wouldn't know which was which"

I am 100% positive that molasses works. It is a 100% proven Fact the Mollassas works, and is good for the plant.
Molasses also provides a small source of Nitrogen.
A very strong source of Potassium. It provides Trace elements. And it also Provides SIMPLE SUGARS!!! Which the plant can obsorb, uptake.
Just one dose of molasses supplys a week of simple sugars, 2 weeks of medium-high strength potassim release.
All of this feeds whatever microlife is surviving in your soil.

Stoney bud, i know u have been growing for over 40 years, and you may of heard some crazy bull poo; but growers have become alot smarter over the last 40 years, and certain practice has been proven to work...like the one i mentioned above.
 
I have found studies backing the use of unsulphered molasses in "High Times" magazine and in other accredited studies, and use it myself. Sugar is what allows plants of ALL types to properly process photosynthesis. Molasses is the "purest" form of sugar on the market due to its processing, and is completely water-soluable. The flushing thing I cannot attest to, though I use flushing methods myself for simple peace of mind, as my wife smokes what I grow, also. In any case, neither will cause harm to your plants if done properly, and remember, IMHO, LESS IS MORE..........
 
thanks for everyones input, like i said i think i will try the mollassas with one plant and leave the other one alone, an experiment i love it. also does anyone know where to get foxfarm ocean forest, ive looked on wormsway and cannot find ocean forest, thanks again for everyones help

:48:
 
Ekoostik_Hookah said:
"It's the same thing with the molasses. If I gave any of you a blind test of weeds that had or had not been done with molasses, you wouldn't know which was which"

I am 100% positive that molasses works. It is a 100% proven Fact the Mollassas works, and is good for the plant. Molasses also provides a small source of Nitrogen. A very strong source of Potassium. It provides Trace elements. And it also Provides SIMPLE SUGARS!!! Which the plant can obsorb, uptake.

Just one dose of molasses supplys a week of simple sugars, 2 weeks of medium-high strength potassim release.
All of this feeds whatever microlife is surviving in your soil.

Stoney bud, i know u have been growing for over 40 years, and you may of heard some crazy bull poo; but growers have become alot smarter over the last 40 years, and certain practice has been proven to work...like the one i mentioned above.

I'm sorry man, but you're wrong about the plant using any sugars from the molasses. Plants are incapable of using sugars via the root system or any other system outside the plant. Sugars used by the plant are created within the plant as a result of photosynthesis. Read this information below and you'll understand more about what I'm trying to say. The information below IS proven by testing.

Let me explain what it is that I'm saying in more in depth.

The addition of molasses to SOIL will in some cases, help control the population of nematodes in the soil.

Trials for the control of nematodes have been done on several types of plants. Papaya, onions and cabbage are the most thoroughly tested crops.

In a papaya plantation on Maui where high and damaging populations of reniform nematodes had caused a reduction in fruit yield and quality, the molasses applications lowered nematode soil populations and resulted in marked improvement in the tree growth and harvestable fruit. When applied to Chinese cabbage, there was a decrease in the numbers of Heterodera nematode cysts following harvest.

Preplant applications of molasses to onions improved plant color and onion yield although no difference in soil nematode populations or in cyst number was observed. Molasses soil amendments supply carbohydrates and alter the C/N ratio. This affects the soil microbial ecology, usually resulting in lowered populations of plant parasitic nematodes as well as having other favorable effects on plant growth. The specific mechanisms involved are not well understood and vary with the crop, soil conditions, and nematode species present.

Soil populations of some microorganisms and of microbial enzymatic activity were also increased by the soil amendments. Under sterile conditions, molasses was not toxic to nematodes so the suppressant effect was probably due to antagonism by microorganisms, to changes in oxygen concentration due to microbial metabolism of molasses, or to the release of toxic compounds from decomposing molasses. Organic amendments such as molasses do not pose a threat to the environment that chemical pesticides do since they are readily decomposed in soil to CO2 and harmless organic products.

In summation to the above information, I can say that when a dilution of 1:20 (3 gal molasses per 55 gal water) is used in SOIL, the following benefits were noted in testing:

Alterations in the soil microflora favorable to plant growth.

Postharvest soil populations of Heterodera cysts were lowered.

The use of molasses would allow growing without nematicide applications.

Molasses provides a carbon source which alters the C/N ratio in soil and this affects the soil microbiota which in turn effects the available nutrients.

A difference between treated and untreated areas in the number of nematode cysts in the soil with lower numbers in the treated area.

There was also a visible difference in tree height and bearing between the two field areas tested. The effect of the molasses on the papaya trees and yield was remarkable. Trees regained their green color and leaves began to grow again. The trees also began to produce marketable fruits that had good shelf life and good taste.

The "good taste" and other beneficial end results that were noted were the result of the absence of harmful soil parasites, not by the uptake of sugars that are contained in molasses. Plants do not use sugar supplied via the root system or from any means exterior to the plant.

The sugars present in molasses are not taken up by the plant. This is a common mistake among people new to plant biology.

Plant sugars, which are formed by the plant during photosynthesis, are an essential component of plant nutrition. Like water, sugar (usually in the form of sucrose, though glucose is the original photosynthetic product) is carried throughout the parts of the plant by the vascular system. Phloem, the vascular tissue responsible for transporting organic nutrients around the plant body, carries dissolved sugars from the leaves (their site of production) or storage sites to other parts of the plant that require nutrients. Within the phloem, sugars travel from areas of high osmotic concentration and high water pressure, called sources, to regions of low osmotic concentration and low water pressure, called sinks. (Osmotic concentration refers the concentration of solutes, or sugars in this case; where the concentration of solutes is highest, so is the osmotic concentration).

Sources

The nutrient-rich regions that supply sugars for the rest of the plant are called the sources. Sources include the leaves, where sugar is generated through photosynthesis. When they are high in supplies, the nutrient storage areas, such as the roots and stems, can also function as sources. In the sources, sugar is moved into the phloem by active transport, in which the movement of substances across cell membranes requires energy expenditure on the part of the cell.

Sinks

Sinks are areas in need of nutrients, such as growing tissues. When they are low in supply, storage areas such as the roots and stems cane function as sinks. The contents of the phloem tubes flow from the sources to these sinks, where the sugar molecules are taken out of the phloem by active transport.

Pressure Flow

The mechanism by which sugars are transported through the phloem, from sources to sinks, is called pressure flow. At the sources (usually the leaves), sugar molecules are moved into the sieve elements (phloem cells) through active transport. Water follows the sugar molecules into the sieve elements through osmosis (since water passively diffuses into regions of higher solute concentration). This water creates turgor pressure in the sieve elements, which forces the sugars and fluids down the phloem tubes toward the sinks. At the sinks, the sugars are actively removed from the phloem and water follows osmotically, so that conditions of high water potential and low turgor pressure are created, driving the pressure flow process.
 

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