I can't tell if this is a problem

[Tokensmoke10]

My plant is about 3 weeks old and I've noticed that the edges of all the leaves have turned a lighter shade of green. Even though it doesn't look yellow, I don't know if it is a problem or not. I know that the picture is a little fuzzy but you should be able to still see what I'm talking about.

 

[UKgirl420]

maybe its time for a light dose of nutes :48:

 

[jmansweed]

It does look like it could use some nutes. Many problems however can start with similar symtoms early on. What kind of soil are you using?

 

[Locked]

Yeah if you are growing in soil with no nutes then it cld be time to introduce some starting lightly...

 

[Tokensmoke10]

Im using a basic soil I got from a hydro store mixed with perlite and worm castings, which with my research the worm castings should provide nutes for a little while right?

 

[jmansweed]

Depending on how much. Worm Castings are a great additive but don't provide the full balanced diet your plants looking for. I'd recommend a nute high in micro-nutrients.

 

[Tokensmoke10]

Can you give some names of brands that I should look for?

 

[purplephazes]

Hello i imagine that the brand names would be numerous thoughout our wonderful world ! So if i lived in lets say ....Australia as an example i would Google ...Worm castings Australia ! And go from there ! Peace and good luck !

 

[StoneyBud]

At that size, your plant should be getting what it needs from your soil. I think perhaps you have some nute-lockout going on there.

At your next watering, check your pH. It should be between 6.0 and 6.5

I'm betting that it's above 6.5, maybe even above 7.5

If so, that would explain the coloring of the leaves and the cure for it.

Also, I'd suggest transplanting into a 3 gallon container. That way, you won't have to keep transplanting it over and over. The container it's in now is too small and will also cause you problems.

Let us all know...

 

[Mutt]

At your next watering, check your pH. It should be between 6.0 and 6.5

uhm thats on the low side for soil. 6.8-7.0 is perfect. swings for me isn't uncommon, but thats the average. Some strains like it a lil lower, but thats a number thats safe. I know of that one chart that says in the lows i have found it innacurate. This one find to be more spot on. 6.5-7.0 shows maximum nutrient uptake.

 

[joshelkins23wv]

looks like they are going to turn yellow if something doesnt change..im new to indoor growing.grown outside for years, but i have found out theres a bit of differences...but looks like some plant food could help.

 

[StoneyBud]

uhm that's on the low side for soil. 6.8-7.0 is perfect. swings for me isn't uncommon, but that's the average. Some strains like it a lil lower, but that's a number that's safe. I know of that one chart that says in the lows i have found it inaccurate. This one find to be more spot on. 6.5-7.0 shows maximum nutrient uptake.

http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1980&d=1141570518

Hey Mutt, according to most of the "Gurus" of weed, a pH of 6.5 in soil is best for most strains. There are of course, strains that thrive better on higher pH and those which like lower pH.
Here's an excerpt from "Hemp diseases and pests: management and biological control" by John Michael McPartland, Robert Connell Clarke and David Paul Watson:

"Soil acidity, measured as pH, directly affects the availability of nutrients in the soil. In soils with insufficient organic materials, pH has a greater influence on nutrient availability (Wolf 1999). Duke (1982) summarized pH data from 44 reports and suggested a soil pH of 6.5 is best."


Of course, as with most things, there are as many opinions as there are people. I'll stick with what Robert Clark advises as the accumulation of evidence from 44 separate reports. It works great for me, as I'm sure you'll stick with what works best for you.


Here's the information on the book if you're interested in reading it:


Here's the perfect recipe for a book about cannabis: use three authors who have spent decades studying cannabis horticulture, combine them with an international publishing company, and give them enough resources to create an oversized book with professional citations, illustrations, and binding.

This perfect recipe has produced a gorgeous new book, HEMP DISEASES AND PESTS - MANAGEMENT AND BIOLOGICAL CONTROL. The authors - Dr. John McPartland, Robert Connell Clarke, and David Watson - are premier marijuana researchers whose credibility and breadth of knowledge are legendary.

McPartland is a medical doctor, botanist and cannabinoid researcher. Clarke is the author of two epic texts, MARIJUANA BOTANY and HASHISH!. Watson runs HortaPharm, the Dutch cannabis breeding consortium supplying specialty cannabis to UK med-pot research projects conducted by GW Pharmaecuticals.


Title Hemp diseases and pests: management and biological control : an advanced treatise
CABI Publishing Series
A CAB International Publication
Authors John Michael McPartland, Robert Connell Clarke, David Paul Watson
Edition illustrated
Publisher CABI, 2000
ISBN 0851994547, 9780851994543
Length 251 pages
Publish Date: 2000-01-31

 

[Mutt]

As far as the "gurus" book is dated 1982. Rosenthaul for example has been found to be flawed and retracted some of his own very early on findings.

I'm not aurguing, but have been getting tutored by gurus myself, not commercial hemp farming tactics. Please note: "insuffecient organic matter"
That right there clues me in that it taking into account a hemp field blasted with chem ferts for years with no new natural decay processes to rebuild the composted organic matter.

Not the same scenario as us working with well balanced soil. Every guru i have followed stuck to the 6.8-7.0 I myself used to try like mad to hold the 6.5 but always had probs. My run off swings like mad, but thats due to the type of growing medium i use. Water going in is always between 6.8-7.0 anything higher or lower i get into probs.

All I'm saying is when it comes to PH that these numbers are not carved into stone, strain types, enviro conditions will affect what the plant actually prefers. I've grown strains that liked 6.5, but on average with many strains under my belt i made a list of which one did what and those are in my garden. 6.0 is way to low and you will get locked out.
6.8-7.0 was the working number for me and many others.

Just saying, that those reports will work for a certain set of variables, but are not law by no means. I just know what works for about 30 strains. ranging from sativas to indicas and stops in between. If he sets his water to about 6.8 it will eliminate one variable in his troubleshooting.

 

[StoneyBud]

I understand perfectly where you're coming from, Mutt. That's why I said:

"Of course, as with most things, there are as many opinions as there are people. I'll stick with what Robert Clark advises as the accumulation of evidence from 44 separate reports. It works great for me, as I'm sure you'll stick with what works best for you."

The impression you got from that except was incorrect, but I can see how you arrived there.

The discussion in that portion of the book was about organic vs non-organic. It had nothing to do with Hemp fields and mass fertilization. It was about container grows.

The information extracted from 44 different reports on marijuana growing is pretty impressive data collection.

I stated "My" low as 6.0 and you stated your high point at 7.0

Both the 6.0 and the 7.0 are on the outside of the best range.

In soil, marijuana will survive in extremes of 4.5 to 8.5, but the absolute best pH that it will grow at (for most strains) is 6.5

As we've both said, there are strains which will grow better in a pH both lower and higher than the 6.5 mark.

The reports that make up that standard of 6.5 come from 44 different, professionally grown test crops of marijuana. It's pretty hard to argue against. Those 44 reports weren't all written by Ed Rosenthal. They come from 44 different sources.

As for the reference to "1982", have you data or information that shows something involving pH in container grown plants has changed since then?

I know you well enough to know that you've chosen your method and won't be swayed by anything else. That's what makes the world go around. We all have different opinions of what is correct.

I'm posting this to advise the people who haven't locked in on what they want to do yet and those who have no idea.

EDIT: My spelling....Yikes!