100 gallon hole

[FarmToTable]

Gearing up for my first real outdoor grow and have a few more questions.

I want to dig 3x3x2 holes, but for 2-3 plant clusters. Is 3 overboard, is 2 ok? I know most people say one plant per hole.

For each hole I was going to add 2 bales of peat, 1 bag cow manure, 1/2 bag worm castings, 1 bag perlite, and a healthy dose of happy frog.

Saw a cool video where the guy lined the holes with industrial trash bags with holes torn in them. Worth doing?

Plants will have had 6-8 weeks veg in 1 g pots.

Any suggestions for doing 2-3 plant clusters?

Thanks :icon_smile:

 

[FarmToTable]

Also- if my soil mix doesn't fill the hole I'm going to turn some of the native soil in to fill the hole . That ok?

 

[trillions of atoms]

3x3x1 =9 bags

3x3x2=18 bags

Assuming they are 1cu ft a piece...

How good is the native soil?

Never seen trash bags 3x3x2 so idk bout that... But lining holes can be a good thing with proper drainage. Amount of holes must be adequate and in the bottom not just the sides. Also think about water table when choosing dig sites. Don't want to drown them if water starts filling the hole or it turns muddy all of the sudden. Adment with dolomite lime as well, around a 1/2 cup per bag of soil.



I'd rather dig a bunch of 16-18" holes a couple feet deep and spread them out, they will be big if they get what they need sun and elemental wise. Three will get crowded.

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

For each hole I was going to add 2 bales of peat, 1 bag cow manure, 1/2 bag worm castings, 1 bag perlite, and a healthy dose of happy frog.



Thanks :icon_smile:

I think this sounds like way way too much peat and probably too much perlite (both are non renewable resources, too). Did you get this mixture somewhere off the internet?

I would also think it would be better to dig more smaller holes as TOA has suggested.

 

[FarmToTable]

Smaller holes sounds good to me! HG, I just kind of winged that mix...and hoped for input so I could adjust. Someone told me 50% pearlite.

No issues with water table, and will be sure to provide adequate drainage in liner.

Thought with the big holes is to give me a better shot at bigger plants since veg time is only 6 weeks ( from germ)

So maybe 18"x18"x2' holes, one per?

Going to put out 12-16 plants, and want to clump in groups of two for ease of care and locating. Ill just dig individual holes, about 2 feet apart.

 

[Rosebud]

Be sure and mix the native soil in with the mixture in bottom 1/4 of the hole. The plant needs to have been exposed to the native soil to continue root growth. Especially if it is clay. Water everything in well and see how it drains. You want it to drain rather quickly. So test with water before you plant. You may need some rock, etc.. Good luck.

 

[orangesunshine]

25 gal pots with ammended bagged soil and a ring of tangle foot imo---1 plant per bucket---no issues with drainage---no issues with soil consistency---no issues with crawly bugs moving in---plants can be moved at any time if need be

 

[FarmToTable]

25 gal pots with ammended bagged soil and a ring of tangle foot imo---1 plant per bucket---no issues with drainage---no issues with soil consistency---no issues with crawly bugs moving in---plants can be moved at any time if need be

I really like the idea of containers...think it's probably as much or maybe less work to plant than in ground? I just don't know how much ill make it up to water and I know containers can dry out. I supposed at 35 gallons its less likely that it will happen frequently. We get good precip where I am.

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

Smaller holes sounds good to me! HG, I just kind of winged that mix...and hoped for input so I could adjust. Someone told me 50% pearlite.

No issues with water table, and will be sure to provide adequate drainage in liner.

Thought with the big holes is to give me a better shot at bigger plants since veg time is only 6 weeks ( from germ)

So maybe 18"x18"x2' holes, one per?

Going to put out 12-16 plants, and want to clump in groups of two for ease of care and locating. Ill just dig individual holes, about 2 feet apart.

This is from Mandala's soil guide:

Photo: an example of quality potting soil - the texture is fluffy & soft, made from fine-grade sphagnum peat, the white specks are traces of perlite. Notice how little perlite professional potting soil contains (1% of total volume)! One of the most common mistakes growers make is to ruin their soil mix with high amounts of perlite.

It just doesn't sound like a balanced soil mix at all--too much peat, too much perlite, no lime, etc, etc. I would recommend doing some more research on good soil mixtures. I also like to try and use renewable resources. I don't understand the purpose of a liner? I would just do as Rosebud says and let the roots have all the room they want.

 

[FarmToTable]

This is from Mandala's soil guide:

Photo: an example of quality potting soil - the texture is fluffy & soft, made from fine-grade sphagnum peat, the white specks are traces of perlite. Notice how little perlite professional potting soil contains (1% of total volume)! One of the most common mistakes growers make is to ruin their soil mix with high amounts of perlite.

It just doesn't sound like a balanced soil mix at all--too much peat, too much perlite, no lime, etc, etc. I would recommend doing some more research on good soil mixtures. I also like to try and use renewable resources. I don't understand the purpose of a liner? I would just do as Rosebud says and let the roots have all the room they want.

Thank you for this advice, will continue research and planning. I want strong yielding healthy plants!

 

[orangesunshine]

I really like the idea of containers...think it's probably as much or maybe less work to plant than in ground? I just don't know how much ill make it up to water and I know containers can dry out. I supposed at 35 gallons its less likely that it will happen frequently. We get good precip where I am.

mixing soil is a b i t c h whether it's going in a hole or container---if drying out is an issue---you can always drop the container in a hole---i does take quite a while for them to dry out---if you get good precip---a good weekly drench will prolly suffice

 

[cubby]

IMO as a long time outdoor/guerilla grower you're overcomplicating things. Even the worst soil is workable, the idea is to amend, not replace the existing soil. The mix I've always used is 3 parts existing soil, 1 part aged composted cow manure, and 1 part composted leafmold. If the soil is still too heavy (clay) add 1 part sand....that's it.
I would plant 1 plant per hole, a minimum of 5 feet between, 8's better. Outdoor plants can get huge, so you want enough room to move between and around them for inspection.
You don't need a giant hole, roots know what they're doing. And lining the hole with anything will restrict root growth.
But, like I said, this is just my opinion. Best of luck, growing outdoors is great fun.

 

[FarmToTable]

IMO as a long time outdoor/guerilla grower you're overcomplicating things. Even the worst soil is workable, the idea is to amend, not replace the existing soil. The mix I've always used is 3 parts existing soil, 1 part aged composted cow manure, and 1 part composted leafmold. If the soil is still too heavy (clay) add 1 part sand....that's it.
I would plant 1 plant per hole, a minimum of 5 feet between, 8's better. Outdoor plants can get huge, so you want enough room to move between and around them for inspection.
You don't need a giant hole, roots know what they're doing. And lining the hole with anything will restrict root growth.
But, like I said, this is just my opinion. Best of luck, growing outdoors is great fun.

Much appreciated- I agree. I lost sight of my initial plan which was to just amend. The soil here is not too bad anyway....if anything in sure it's a tiny bit acidic, which a handful of lime mixed in well should help. Going to go ahead and take your advice to amend, and plant in ground. Composted leaf mold..is this just composted leaves? What can replace this?

Thanks again. Grown any of the genetics I have listed above, outside?

 

[cubby]

Composted leaf mold is just leaves that that have been composted as a stand alone bio-mass.
Regular compost is made by layering green matter, brown matter, a bit of ready compost, moisture, and adequate air, and turning it regularly. Composted leaf mold is made by filling a black plastic contractors bag 3/4 full of moistened leaves, tie the top, poke a few holes in the bag and leave it sit 6 months to a year, and viola...leaf mold compost. It doesn't add much, if any, beneficial organisms but will fluff up your soil and assist with water retention by 50% or more, you'll need less water, less often.
I don't know where it's available commercially, I just make my own every fall. If you call around to some of the garden centers in your area they may have it. If your local municipality collects yard waste they may have it, and would probably be fairly cheap.
Good Luck


I can't answer the question about the genetics on your list because I don't see a list. But in 30 years +/- I've grown alot of stuff, indicas because we don't have a long enough season to grow sativias.

 

[trillions of atoms]

Thank u cubby, planting 2ft apart would be a waste.

 

[FarmToTable]

I feel a lot better going Into this now, complicating it less will save time and money. Ill space them 5' minimum, dig 2x2x2 holes, and use a little less perlite than I was planning.

The only issue I have now is making a list to get my soil amendments. Im figuring 15 plants/ holes, and will incorporate about 1/3 of the native soil back in. That leaves me with about 4 cubic feet to fill.

Suggestions on how many bags of peat, manure, castings...? Ballpark. And I'm figuring 1 40lb bag of Lyme.

Now- I'm putting these in the ground at 6-8 weeks veg. Light feeding when I plant then go back in like 2-3 weeks for a heavy veg feeding? I guess I can feed pretty heavy when I transplant since I will have started to feed them before the transplant.

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

If you do the right mix of organic amendments that break down at different rates, you may find that you have to fertilize very seldom. Soils differ so much from local to local. It might be good to talk to nursery people who know what the soil in the area needs to bring it up to snuff.

 

[trillions of atoms]

Alot of perlite in an indoor grow is awesome, they dry out quick you notice.. And water again. Outside is a totally different story. If its a guerrilla grow you def don't want to have to water everyday. When it gets hot... If the soil mix is to arreated you will have to water every day.


Bx pro soil bales are designed with this in mind. If you tried to water everyday using this soil even in hot/dry climates you will drown the plants.


If the spot has water and is easy to get to you don't have to worry about the mix... But if not, might wanna do some serious research for your area expected weather and try and take that into account.

My location the weather might be totally diff from where you are at.


Just something to keep in mind...

 

[FarmToTable]

Between fish meal and alfalfa meal- which breaks down at a slower rate?

 

[grass hopper]

I Roto tilled last year and could not believe how far roots spread w/ loose aerated soil. roots went in approx a 12 foot circle around the stalk. Yes I agree, 8 foot centerline , plant to plant is a min. For plants 6 ft. And higher. amazing how much more total volume (buds), if the sun can reach all sides, compared to 2 sides and 2 sides lost to cluster planting. mine grows Avg. 1.5 in. tall per day 45 in. per month.DON'T FORGET pinch pinch pinch for xtra wide mother humpers.