Arjans Haze#2 Strawberrycough A New Hydro Set Up Need All The Help I Can Get!!

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I need to clarify here... LSTing DOES NOT create more bud sites... there will be the same number of bud sites on a plant that is LSTed or not... they do not 'just magically appear' if you LST.

all LSTing does is make the bud sites available to the light in a more effective manner (ie... it makes it so they r in a more perpendicular position to the light)... it does not create them... only allowing a plant to veg longer will do that.

of course... LSTing WILL allow you to allow a plant to veg longer cuz you are modifying the height that would have occured naturally allowing a plant to veg longer....
 
sillysara said:
i thaught lst promotes bud site ..just goes to show how much i know:p
i seen in ur photos at 3 weeks of veg they were massive how u get em that big tcvg?
i never topped either cud that be a option?

ok im getting mixed replys here dont know what to do:eek:
 
That crazy vancouver guy said:
I need to clarify here... LSTing DOES NOT create more bud sites... there will be the same number of bud sites on a plant that is LSTed or not... they do not 'just magically appear' if you LST.

all LSTing does is make the bud sites available to the light in a more effective manner (ie... it makes it so they r in a more perpendicular position to the light)... it does not create them... only allowing a plant to veg longer will do that.

of course... LSTing WILL allow you to allow a plant to veg longer cuz you are modifying the height that would have occured naturally allowing a plant to veg longer....

You are rioght, sorry I'm high...I did mean better bud sites as the buds will fight to be the top bud, hence in my little mind I said more, not more, just bigger and better. You want the top cola below the other portions of the plant. Those bud sites will fight to become the top cola ...so in the end you get bigger buds, not more, sorry for stupid error...
 
hey i transplanted the seedlings ther 24 days old this sunday and i guess ther not seedling anymore;) they grew pretty fast in the last few days so i decided i cud transplant..

my seedlings in rockwool and in the propogater are 8 days old they seem to be ok ..
And the bud shots has been on 12/12 over 25 days and only showed sex two weeks ago..let me know how in doing:)

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Looks like you got a green thumb on you.Keep up the good work and before you know it,tasty buds in your bowl.Keep it GREEN:D
 
sillysara said:
transplanted two of the seedlings into the hydrophonic set up with a ph 0f 6.2 and if they grow over nite ill transplant the rest of them..i hope so

Great job, as always. Did you get your meter fixed or replaced? Anyway5.5-5.8 is better if you can get there.... keep it green...Awesome...
 
That crazy vancouver guy said:
like Joker said, sara... you want to be at the 5.5 ph lvl in hydro.
Thanks and ditto again, & here's some more good info I found... :D

pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of any given solution. Water solutions at 25°C with a pH less than seven are considered acidic, while those with a pH greater than seven are considered basic (alkaline). When a pH level is 7.0, it is defined as 'neutral' at 25°C because at this pH the concentration of H3O+ equals the concentration of OH− in pure water. pH is formally dependent upon the activity of hydronium ions (H3O+),but for very dilute solutions, the molarity of H3O+ may be used as a substitute with little loss of accuracy. (H+ is often used as a synonym for H3O+.) Because pH is dependent on ionic activity, a property which cannot be measured easily or fully predicted theoretically, it is difficult to determine an accurate value for the pH of a solution. The pH reading of a solution is usually obtained by comparing unknown solutions to those of known pH, and there are several ways to do so.
The concept of pH was first introduced by Danish chemist S. P. L. Sorenson at the Carlsberg Laboratory in 1909. The name pH has been claimed to have come from any of several sources including: pondus hydrogenii, potentia hydrogenii (Latin), potentiel hydrogène (French), and potential of hydrogen.

pH affects plant growth and nutrient availability. pH values above 7.5 cause iron, manganese, copper, zinc and boron ions to become less available to plants. pH values below 6 cause the solubility (in water) of phosphoric acid, calcium and magnesium to drop. pH values between 3 and 5 and temperatures above 26 degrees Celsius encourage the development of harmful fungal diseases.

When pH varies the ratio in uptake of anions (negatively charged nutrients) and cations (positively charged nutrients) by plants this can cause substantial shifts in pH. In general, an excess of cation over anion leads to a decrease in pH, whereas an excess of anion over cation uptake leads to an increase in pH. As nitrogen (an element required in large quantities for healthy plant growth) may be supplied either as a cation (ammonium - NH4+) or an anion (nitrate - NO3), the ratio of these two forms of nitrogen in the nutrient solution can have large effects on both the rate and direction of pH changes with time. This shift in pH can be surprisingly fast. Daylight photosynthesis produces hydrogen ions which can cause the nutrient acidity to increase (lowering the pH). At dusk photosynthesis stops and the plants increase their rate of respiration and this coupled with the respiration of micro organisms and the decomposition of organic matter uses up the hydrogen ions so the acidity of the solution tends to decrease (pH rises).

Most varieties of vegetables grow at their best in a nutrient solution that has a pH of between 6.0 and 7.5, and a nutrient temperature between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius.

In low light (overcast days or indoor growing environments) cannabis plants will take up more potassium and phosphorous from the nutrient solution, so the acidity increases (pH drops). In strong intense light (clear sunny days) plants take up more nitrogen from the nutrient solution so the acidity decreases (pH rises). pH can be controlled in two ways.

Extremes in pH can result in precipitation of certain nutrients. For plant roots to be able to absorb nutrients, the nutrients must be dissolved in solution. The process of precipitation (the reverse of dissolving) results in the formation of solids in the nutrient solution, making nutrients unavailable to plants. Not all precipitation settles to the bottom of the tanks, some precipitates occur as very fine suspension invisible to the naked eye. Plants can tell us their problems through leaf symptoms (e.g. iron [Fe] deficiency) when it's too late. Iron (Fe) is one essential plant nutrient whose solubility is affected by pH which is why it is added in a chelated form (or daily), Fe deficiency symptoms occur readily. At pH values over 7, less than 50% of the Fe is available to plants. At pH 8.0, no Fe is left in solution due to iron hydroxide precipitation (Fe(OH)3 - which eventually converts to rust). As long as the pH is kept below 6.5, over 90% of the Fe is available to plants. Varying pH of summer lettuce nutrient solutions also affects the solubility of calcium (Ca) and phosphorus (P). Due to calcium phosphate precipitation (Ca3(PO4)2) the availability of Ca and P decreases at pH values above 6.0. All other nutrients stay in solution and do not precipitate over a wide pH range. Poor water quality could exacerbate any precipitation reactions that may occur. Generally in the pH range 4.0 to 6.0, all nutrients are available to plants. Precipitation reduces Fe, Ca and P availability at pH 6.0 and over .

Adjusting pH The addition of acids or alkalis to nutrient solutions is the most common and practical means to adjust pH, and can be easily automated. There are ways to minimise pH variations and they are worth some consideration. Nitrogen is the essential inorganic nutrient required in the largest quantity by plants. Most plants are able to absorb either nitrate (NO3-) or ammonium (NH4+) or both. NH4+ as the sole source of nitrogen or in excess is deleterious to the growth of many plant species. Some plants yield better when supplied with a mixture of NH4+ (ammonium) and NO3- (nitrate) compared to NO3- alone. A combination of NH4+ and NO3- can be used to buffer against changes in pH. Plants grown in nutrient solution containing only NO3- as the sole nitrogen source tend to increase solution pH, hence the need to add acid. But when approximately 10%-20% of the total nitrogen is supplied as NH4+, the nutrient solution pH is stabilised at pH 5.5. NH4+ concentration needs to be monitored as it has been shown recently that micro-organisms growing on plant root surfaces can convert the NH4+ to NO3-. Since hand-held ion-selective electrodes for measuring both NH4+ and NO3- are now available, it should be possible to accurately monitor and maintain a predetermined NO3-/NH4+ ratio throughout the life of the crop. Phosphorus is required in large amounts by plants. Interestingly, there are two forms of fertilisers containing both K and P - KH2PO4 mono-potassium phosphate (MKP) and K2HPO4 di-potassium phosphate. Equal quantities of both can be used to maintain the pH at 7.0. Using a higher proportion of K2HPO4 increases pH. MKP can be used to lower the solution pH. Buffers are solutions which resist pH change and are used to calibrate pH electrodes. Buffers can be added to nutrient solutions in an attempt to maintain pH stability. One such buffer is called 2-(N-morpholino) ethanesulfonic acid - abbreviated to MES. Many of the companies who claim better pH control with their 'specially' formulated nutrient solutions add MES to their mixes. It is important to remember when using MES, that after MES addition the pH is low and needs to be adjusted to your required level with an alkali such as potassium hydroxide (KOH). Another method of pH stabilisation is to use ion- exchange and chelating resins. Generally, these resins are small beads which have nutrients absorbed or chelated onto them - the nutrient solution circulates through the beads or the beads can be suspended in the nutrient tank. As plants absorb nutrients, more nutrients are released by the resins. The aim is to achieve controlled release of nutrients into the solution in an attempt to mimic the way the soil releases nutrients. Ideally, such release can adequately supply the growing plants' nutritional requirements and maintain pH stability.

Is pH Adjustment Critical? pH is not as critical as most hydroponicists believe. The main point is to avoid extremes in pH. Plants grow on soils with a wide range of pH. For most plant species there is an optimum pH in the region of pH 5 to pH 6. In soil it is generally considered that 6.0-6.5 is the optimum range for soil; and in hydroponic environments the pH range should be 5.5-5.8.



 
:banana: hey guys.. my soil grow will be a month old on the first of march.. i have 6 strawbeery cough and two arjans haze#2..their under 400 wat hps and temps are 78..question is the light good enough for anothr week till get another for flowering?

And onto my hydrophonic grow ~i put 8 of the seedlings in into the pots and they are under 400 watt hps and another 250 watt hps..they are 12 days old..i hope they'll grow over the next few days

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sillysara said:
:banana: hey guys.. my soil grow will be a month old on the first of march.. i have 6 strawbeery cough and two arjans haze#2..their under 400 wat hps and temps are 78..question is the light good enough for anothr week till get another for flowering?

s

Absolutely...It will be good enough until your plants are too big obviously...depends how long you stay in veg... but some would even finish a grow with that light, a 600HPS would be enough if you just wanted to use just one light till the end. IMHO
 
hey guys; the seedlings in the hydro setup are coming along nicely :) and as soon as i transplanted them they grew like hell..they spent 11 days in the propogater maybe i shud of transplanted @ day 7 ..but the are all looking good..
now the 8 stawberry cough plants are in soil @29 days of veg and have been growing like hell:) stayin small n bushy:p il keep em in veg for another 2 weeks..im going to put the soil and hydrophonic setup in to flower around 17th march..

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that's great you got a little helper :cool: ... sure hope he doesn't mention anything to anyone....

everything is looking good, sara... keep it up :aok:
 
first pictures are of my soil grow in veg a month ,you can see 1 of the plants has 3 heads it was not topped or lst'd..
the next ones are my soil grow a month into flowering these plants had a bad start :eek: but they are budding..
next is my hydro set up and all the plants are 2 weeks old they look fine only for one,,there always has to be 1:p

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hi all..i think my plants are not doing so well they are growing slowly..i transplanted a few days ago into the system they are just getting water ph 6.0 and 1/8 th of root juice and the nute levels are 200...they are two weeks old..i seen other plants in hydro alot bigger!!
would they be just gettin used to the system? or are they stressed in some sort of way!
any advice be great;)

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sillysara said:
hi all..i think my plants are not doing so well they are growing slowly..i transplanted a few days ago into the system they are just getting water ph 6.0 and 1/8 th of root juice and the nute levels are 200...they are two weeks old..i seen other plants in hydro alot bigger!!
would they be just gettin used to the system? or are they stressed in some sort of way!
any advice be great;)

lower the ph to 5.5-5.8.

BTW, shame shame on you for letting those babies smoke. You know smoking stunts your growth. :rofl: nice set-up GREEN MOJO
 

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