DWC help

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captain1

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OK its my first grow in hydro and have had great soil grows. I am fighting this tooth and nail. Heres what I have.
1. Water RO 5.6 ph
2. Dutch Master gold Nuts. PPM 600-630
3. Large air pump ( enough for 18)
4. Temp on top of plant has been at 84 at its highest

My problem is they are turning yellow and crispy. Some were in ph lock because I bought cheap organic down it sucked dont buy it ever.
My new clones from a friend look great but new growth shows that again they are going to go yellow. Whats causing this do I need more Nuts? Less? Im gowing crazy please help.
 
NEw

dwc 001.jpg
 
it sure sounds strange since your grow conditions seem ok, it can be many things, did you change the res after you switched from your organic ph down? IMO change the res and give em a fresh solution, make sure the grorocks get water regularly cuz in the early days when you transplant them they need to establish roots and pick up, and try putting the damaged plants farther from light to slow its growth down allowing it to recover level your ph between 5.8 and 6 and try to get the temps down to the 70's level if possible. the second pic that plant is almost done and the 1st pic looks on the same track theres something very wrong you're doing and you need to do fix . my best guess is that your rocks aren't getting humid enough and the high temp is dryin them further cuz the plants r small they dont hold enough water in them yet cuz their mass is small and they dry quicker, keep us posted, good luck :ciao:
 
How old is that plant? I also think that you have nute burn. Plants do not need any nutes until they are 3-4 weeks old. And then I start out with something in the 200 range. A ppm of 600 is quite high for a plant that small. What do you mean when you say your air pump is big enough for 18? 18 what? How much air does it put out? Have the roots grown into the solution?
 
we start ours out (dwc) at around 220-250...

def nute burn...and it looks like the clones were leaning that way also...

at this time, you dont want to be growing foliage. you want to be concentrating on making big, long, white roots. so get the big lights gone for now, and put a few 40-42 w cfls in there...lower the nutes to 200-250...balance rez temp near to 70 as you can...feel the inside wall of your rez for slime...smell it...clean if needed...(if slime becomes a problem, add 1 cap h202 to rez per gallon liquid)...

ok. X this by 18, and your entire day should be pretty tied up...
 
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where did he say what light he was useing? and wont cfl make his plants stretch?



I like soil:bong:
 
Ok so heres new info

1. The plants are already rooted about a foot long or more.
2. The are under a t5 about 6-7 inches away
3. My friend had the ppms at 600 befor I recieved them
4. Res has been changed with new buckets.
5. I know I had nut lock befor and had what looked like salt on the bottom of old buckets. since have had no more.
6. wouldnt the tips brown hard and curl if nut burn? seems to be yellowing like they need N.
 
Also some plants are older than others in the pics they are 2-3 weeks old.
 
looks like nute burn to me too. gotta check and make sure your getting enough air bubbles too. that was part of my problem, along with I was just using the drops to check ph. I went and got a better pump( ty hg and mindzeye by the way heheh) and bought a decent ph pen. now I will prolly never go back to dirt. hang in there captin. once you have it dialed in it wil be bad azz! I couldnt be happier with dwc. good luck. :)
 
captain1 said:
5. I know I had nut lock befor and had what looked like salt on the bottom of old buckets. since have had no more.
6. wouldnt the tips brown hard and curl if nut burn? seems to be yellowing like they need N.
5-nutrient lockout is because of high fert cocentration in the solution the salt buildup is not a sign to tell if concentration is high for your plants. you've just cleaned the buckets even if concentration is very high it won't show salt in the bottom already. try flush the gowrock with only water a lot of it so that the salts get well flushed from the growrock on your rootball
6-fert lockout can look like N deficiency since the ferts are not getting into the plants. fert burns browning and curling are sign of overfert but this is usually incorporated with dark green because ferts buildup slowly in the plant until they reach high levels. in your case you may have given them too much concentration straight away and the roots just couldnt suck any N in and only locked out nutes. maybe your friend's ppm was not 600 check for that, and the drying of growrocks causes further lockout since it becomes more concentrated when water evaporates and the smaller plants need lower ppm until they pick up and grow... hope you can get them healthy again cheers
 
I know it was nutrient lock because of the ph down I was using was junk organic citric acid (needed it in a pinch). Ph levels were all over from 5.0-8.5 once I changed ph and RO never had a prob. My bubbler is a alita 80. Running less than needed so air is sufficient. I use a good digital ph and tds meter and check calibration often. i bought a new light 8 bulb t5 im going to use. And will lower them down to 200-300 ppm.
 
My friend thinks my ph needs to be from 6.0-6.3 he states thats where his are. He uses the same nutrients dutch master grow.Im freaking losing my mind over this....
 
captain1 said:
My friend thinks my ph needs to be from 6.0-6.3 he states thats where his are. He uses the same nutrients dutch master grow.Im freaking losing my mind over this....
i once saw a plant get better with this PH range but i almost got stoned in here when i gave this advise so i'll emphasize on IME :p dont keep messin with your res IMO make the ph 6 its a safe zone especially your friend have been growin them there dont put strong lights yet humidify the enviroment not by misting the plants directly and pray for the best good luck :)
 
The pH should ideally be 5.8. I start my pH at 5.6 and let it drift to 6.0.

6.3 is way to high for hydro....
 
4u2sm0ke said:
where did he say what light he was useing? and wont cfl make his plants stretch?



I like soil:bong:

i like soil too 4u. i also like dwc...;) ...

he did'nt say what light he was using. BUT, he did state his temp was 84. it wont get that hot with cfls. has to be hps, or ballast in mh...do you agree 4u?

we veg under cool blue cfls that will stack nodes, on top of nodes, at 1 inch-2inch apart...(i get the occasional 'stray out of the light' like everyone else that plants a few to many)...

i also veg with a 250mh at times. (different plant=different light type) , and sometimes, i use all i got...thats usually in flowering though...

set her at 6.0, and see how she likes it cap...
 
IRISH said:
i like soil too 4u. i also like dwc...;) ...

he did'nt say what light he was using. BUT, he did state his temp was 84. it wont get that hot with cfls. has to be hps, or ballast in mh...do you agree 4u?

we veg under cool blue cfls that will stack nodes, on top of nodes, at 1 inch-2inch apart...(i get the occasional 'stray out of the light' like everyone else that plants a few to many)...

i also veg with a 250mh at times. (different plant=different light type) , and sometimes, i use all i got...thats usually in flowering though...

set her at 6.0, and see how she likes it cap...

Half were hps half t5 (pics under t5)
They are all under 4 foot 8 bulb T5 now
Temp was taken at the top of the leaves to make sure they are not burning due to heat.

Room temp 70
water temp 71-72
 
pcduck said:
The pH should ideally be 5.8. I start my pH at 5.6 and let it drift to 6.0.

6.3 is way to high for hydro....

Thats excatly what I thought I started at 5.6.

I put it to 6.0 he promised by sat new growth should prove him right we will see.
 
Again roots are established and long with fish bone. 12 inches +
 
I know it's a little late to post this but my first time ever was DWC and man was if fun to do. I won't go to soil because I have a friend that does soil and he told me how long it takes him and I cut the time down with DWC.
 

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