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orangesunshine said:
yes---and yes---booths are in a garage---teams are LA Dodgers---LA Lakers---near the coast so OD temps are mostly high 70's if it ain't foggy---1k hps in the veg---2k hps in flower---with the space as tight as it is (very short runs of ducting) not sure changing it out for insulated stuff is gonna make much of a difference here---but---if i don't replace the portable a/c with a mini-slit i will have to get insulated duct for the exhaust cause that portable POS puts out a lot of heat---got the same filter set up in flower---the air in flower is pushed in from veg and pulled thru filter, 2 lights, and pulled out into the garage---i have negative pressure in both rooms

I have not built a sealed room yet. So this is what I THINK should be done

I dont know if you would even benefit from ventilation. Once the outdoor temps get too high its not gonna do anything. Ventilation would work in the winter but not in the summer. If you want the same environment year round I would get the biggest mini split heat pump you can or a full size heat pump. Hook that exhaust fan to a timer to change the air however often the peeps with sealed rooms recommend. Install back draft dampers on your exhaust and inlet.

Then your ready for CO2 anyway.

That is what I would do in a warm climate. Right now I am worried about keeping my temps up at night when the lights are off.

I just think that running duct in your space would be a waste of money.
 
It's starting to click in my head.
I understand that the way you are usuing your fan and ducting in the utmost efficient manner.

So lets talk sealed room. The air going thru the lights must be pulled and pushed from outside the grow area.

Usuing 8" hoods. My 8" fan is mounted directly to the flange of the first light. The light strings have 6, 1000w lights connected together. The room has 3 of these strings, for a total of 18 lights.,
Pics I think, let me see. I was a little baked on the last post (like I'm not baked now haha), and forgot to post the pic of the ac up.

So, from the pic, I pull air from the left and push thru mu hoods, exiting the last light with 8" duct straight up and out of the room. So, it is a straight shot from the intake and 1 90 elbow out on the last light.

So, to have it better, I would change the intake of the blower to a 14", reduced down to the 8", and then change the exhaust end to the same 8"-14" out?

I think building a box like you have your filter in is more efficient but not feasable in my situation.
Mind you, I move my lights often for the first 4 weeks or so so adjustability is a must.

I have given it quite some thought, but with my limited knowledge, the straight line with the 8" mounted to the hood worked.
I thought about putting another 8" on the end to pull also, but not sure if that would be cool or not.

Cost is a factor too. Big factor. I know changing iit up would be some loot, but I am allways open to learn and make things better.

airhandler.jpg


blower.jpg
 
NorCalHal said:
So lets talk sealed room. The air going thru the lights must be pulled and pushed from outside the grow area.

Usuing 8" hoods. My 8" fan is mounted directly to the flange of the first light. The light strings have 6, 1000w lights connected together. The room has 3 of these strings, for a total of 18 lights.,
Pics I think, let me see. I was a little baked on the last post (like I'm not baked now haha), and forgot to post the pic of the ac up.

So, from the pic, I pull air from the left and push thru mu hoods, exiting the last light with 8" duct straight up and out of the room. So, it is a straight shot from the intake and 1 90 elbow out on the last light.

So, to have it better, I would change the intake of the blower to a 14", reduced down to the 8", and then change the exhaust end to the same 8"-14" out?

I think building a box like you have your filter in is more efficient but not feasable in my situation.
Mind you, I move my lights often for the first 4 weeks or so so adjustability is a must.

I have given it quite some thought, but with my limited knowledge, the straight line with the 8" mounted to the hood worked.
I thought about putting another 8" on the end to pull also, but not sure if that would be cool or not.

Cost is a factor too. Big factor. I know changing iit up would be some loot, but I am allways open to learn and make things better.

Your setup sounds good. The only thing I would change would be moving the fan as close to the outlet as possible. Have the outlet be at least 12", and the duct down to the hoods at least 10". BUT like you said, at this point your setup is working. The only benefit would be that your AC would not run as much. Not really worth the trouble.

At my old place I originally had 6" duct running to my manifold. when summer hit it was just not good enough. I brought home an air measuring device. At my manifold I was only moving 200CFM. That's when I upgraded the duct to 12" R8 insulated. I remeasured the system and was pulling 450 CFM. more than doubled with minimal cost. I am just trying to point out to people struggling with heat that up sizing duct may be the cheapest route. That simple change dropped my temps from 96 to 76.

Big duct is cumbersome and the only reason I did mine this way is because I just bought a house with a shop. I am trying to do as much as possible with the equipment I have. I will probably tear it all down and build sealed rooms this summer. One step at a time.

On a side note, my shop has a chimney. I plugged my fan in to that. Super stealthy.
 

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