I need the T R U E facts

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Oldgeezer

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I have been looking at the possibililty of switching to Magnetic Induction Grow lights and am sure some of u either are using or have used these lights.
Because of the problem with heat I have tried the LEDs but they are not the answer for me. I was using CFLs in the past. If someone can be of help this old fart would be very greatfull so fire away and lets see where the ball bounces
 
Have you tried T5's for veg? They are less heat. I have not used magnetic lights.
 
I don't know of anyone using them here. There is also very little info on the internet about them. The places I did find touted them as being quite superior, but I wonder if it is like a lot of the hype around LEDs. What I read says that they give the most lumens per watt, but I could find not information on what that figure was. They are not new, have been around forever, but few people use them, which makes me question why.

If you have a good source of info on them, why don't you link it here so we can have a gander at it Make sure to disable the link so it is not live.
 
some claim to go the whole way with T5's veg and flower thoyugh ive never tried myself i do use T5 for veg and I love em. I hear all you do is switch to the 2500k bulbs. lless heat for sure, but the only tried and true method I know is hps/mh digital ballasts. heat is definately an issue, it can be 100deg and 100%Rh here in the summer for me. you need a big centrifuge fan, I like to exchange air 3 times a min for good temps, and some ac. We just have to battle heat, I know it sucks!!!til LED or plasma really gets it togwther were stuck with the heat!
 
I don't have a problem with air temp (convection) with HPS but from radiation of light. Fan leaves (of some strains) do not like the strong HPS even from a decent distance. (My AK does not like 250W HPS closer than 4 ft. whereas my WW does not mind it.)

(ie. The three types of heat are: Convection, Conduction, Radiation. Have a B.S. Engineering Degree so I took plenty of physics.)
 
i Have grown from start to finish with T5s. It can be done and have a pretty good harvest. BUTTTTT,,,HPS will give ya the best results in Flower,,,Hands down. Cant beat T5s for Vegg though.
 
Six; I think there is something wrong if the AK can't handle a 250wHPS no less than 4' away(I have never heard of that AK being that sensitive). I have had several different strains under 2 600wHPS within 18" without issues. :huh: that seems strange.

Did you have good air movement and ventilation? I have found that to be key to them handling light intensity. However, if you have plants directly under a light and it light burns, you can get "hot spot" deflectors that mount on the bulb for pretty cheap. :)
 
ifsixwasnin9 said:
I don't have a problem with air temp (convection) with HPS but from radiation of light. Fan leaves (of some strains) do not like the strong HPS even from a decent distance. (My AK does not like 250W HPS closer than 4 ft. whereas my WW does not mind it.)

(ie. The three types of heat are: Convection, Conduction, Radiation. Have a B.S. Engineering Degree so I took plenty of physics.)

If you cannot get your HPS closer than 4' to your AK with a 250W, I would say that you have some other kind of problem, as others do have this problem. I have never in all my years of growing had a strain that could not take HPS light.
 
whats a magnetic induction light? is that the same as a magnetic ballast?

i run a 400w magnetic ballast, and it gets way hotter than my 600w digital ballast...more than 20x hotter...i have two fully functional 400w mh, hi-bay lights that i dyno'd where the ballast is outside the grow...(its how i drench blues at week six into my grows)...;)
 
I'm an electrician so this is right up my alley.

Magnetic ballasts are the old style of ballast. They use a coil and iron core to convert one voltage to another, a transformer really. They contain an internal oil coolant, in older cases pcbs. They get way hotter and are way less efficient than electronic ballasts. Electronic ballasts have a capacitor and uses other forms of electronics to give it a better power factor. The light from a magnetic ballast is less usable than electronic due to the flicker they cause.

I could go way more into detail but long story short, don't buy magnetic. No one uses it or buys is anymore as it's way less efficient (power factor), way hotter, and just plain bad for the environment and when they start leaking and get all over your skin, not the best for you either.

Induction lighting, as another poster asked about, is way more efficient than both styles of ballast. They are sopposed to create a much more usable light for plants as they have full spectrum grow lights that you use from start to finish. I have personally never seen them, or their regular high bay counterpart. They are super expensive in comparison to other styles an no one is buying them. Makes you wonder. These became the talk of the trade about 3 years ago, and just seemed way too good to be true. They must have been since everyone is still using HID or fluros for high bays, and fluro and LED for buildings.

I'm not sure of the cost now, but when I was pricing a few out for a job they were $600 for a 400w ballast. Of course this would not be a remote ballast as it's unnecessary for commercial applications.

I would stick with the proven Electronic Ballast, LED or Fluro. Electronic being your best HID option.
 

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