Lil Lowryder

[Dizoelio]

Hey, forgot to ask. Anything unwanted from the ruderalis genes that comes with this strain? Nothing that effects the high right? Seems so unreal 9 weeks.

 

[THCskunk]

I am still not getting MW to work. so I'll just do like this.

Materials:
Pots-5x5square, they are 10" deep. one per plant. 1 10" pot. gallon or more.
LIghts-CFL daylight 5600k 1800 lumens
reflective-Mylar
teaspoon dropper
spray bottle
teaspoon measuring tables

Nutes and soil:
SuperThrive
Flora Nova
Guano Gro
Organic Choice (Miracle Gro)
Ferti-Lome
2-1gal of water, one to mix your SuperThrive, and the other for the Flora Nova.

1. Using your big pot of choice ,1 gallon, 2 gallon, depending on how much you're planning on germinating, fill the pot half way this way you don't use up too much soil. Your little seeds wont need much deepness now.

2. Having your pot ready with soil, go to your nearest sink or bath tub and soak the soil till it starts to come out of the drain holes on the bottom. When done so, let it drain fully till no more water drips. Don't let it dry out, just watch it right there and wait till it drains. Level your soil nice and flat but not packed down, leave fluffly but not too much.

3. Having your seeds in hand ready for placement, press down into the soil using your index finger and making 1/2 inch deep, about the size of your fingernail. Remember, you are using your big pot because your are germinating multiples of seeds at one time in one pot of organic soil. This eliminates the hassle of later switching soils from your pots that will be filled with Ferti-Lome soil. Your seeds should be at least two inches apart, this way when they germinate, you wil have good room digging them out without damaging the root or the other little seedlings around that one.

4. When done so with the soil, carefully grab your seed and place it, seed side up. The way you can tell which is the top is your seeds has detachment mark where it sat inside the flower, place that side up.
There is no improvement in growth or yield with this method just speeds up the process by helping the lil seed find its gravity.

5. After having all the seeds in the holes, covert the holes naturaly, always think about how they would grow in the wild, they are covered up lightly, not packed, but again don't let them have to much exposure to air, you'll get it man, don't worry. You can put toothpicks right by the hole where planted your seed to identify exactly where to spray your water explained in step six.

6. Afterwards have your spray bottle and fill it up with just plain balanced water, no SuperThrive yet. Some growers say you can use it right away but I did'nt. It won't hurt it, but then again I am writing exactly how I did it. Spray your soil where the seeds are at. Three sprays every 12 hours will do it, test your soil by pressing down gently and rub your fingers together to see if you there is moisture.

7. When they finally Germinate, leave them there still spraying them with the bottle till they get about 3-4 days old. Or when they sprout thier second set of leaves. Have your 5x5 pots ready filled with Ferti-Lome soil.
Spray about 20 sprays of water onto the new soil. Then get a sharpie pen or something sterilized that will create a 1/2"x4" hole.

8. Get your seedlings and soak them with 2 tsp. of water around the soil where they sit and with the tip of a spoon, carefully dig 1" away from the seedling and pull it out very carefully. Place it in the ready soil which you have preped and making sure your the root goes straight down, this will take a few attempts till you get it right in the soil. Cover It up and water one more time so that the soil locks in with the water.

9. After that you're all set, use the SuperThrive now that you have got them in because they will need it, the new soil contains alot of nutes and they will expierience a littlie stress, the SuperThrive helps or eliminates the stress and also gives them the jump start to a healthy introduction to nute soil.

water them daily but not too much, just about 2- teaspoons a day. Let your soil dry out once in awhile so that they do not build up a routine of when you are going to water them. change the waterings from less to alot in variation time periods. Again, think like if you were the jungle or habitat that they are instinctively used to. You contro the weather and climate, make it a good one.

Anymore questions don't be afraid to ask.

 

[THCskunk]

I am using CFL's 5600k daylights. lumens about 1800 each. one light per plant.
As far as the Ruderalis, that just means it can grow in the places where other strains would die if not having the nutes or correct soil.
This lil sucker will grow on the side of the highway or in just plain dirt. But taking good care of it can get you about 50-60 grams of pure sweet tasty pot. Play your cards right, like LST or FIM, and she will top out at 85-90 grams. So far that is the holding record, hey who knows, you can maybe yield more.

 

[Dizoelio]

I am using CFL's 5600k daylights. lumens about 1800 each. one light per plant.
As far as the Ruderalis, that just means it can grow in the places where other strains would die if not having the nutes or correct soil.
This lil sucker will grow on the side of the highway or in just plain dirt. But taking good care of it can get you about 50-60 grams of pure sweet tasty pot. Play your cards right, like LST or FIM, and she will top out at 85-90 grams. So far that is the holding record, hey who knows, you can maybe yield more.

Sweet! Can't wait, proably have em in a week or two ordered today. Received confirmation number.

I am testing out LST on one of my plants coming this week, making hooks and gently doing it.

What will the cured nugget look like? Color wise/texture, like some nice crystaly stuff or some leafy nugs? Haven't seen much pictures of the cured nugs around.

 

[shuggy4105]

"I" beleive the "Ruderalis" input is to strenghthen the strain against disease and problems,as it actually means "wild",the mj growing wild without any interfeirance from us. although, "I" could be misinformed. :smoke1: :smoke1:

 

[Hick]

the ruderalis is the predominant "auto"flowering influence..IMHO. ..and origonally was Russian "hemp"..with little to no psychactive qualities.

the nature of the three strains of cannabis (C. sativa, C. indica and C. ruderalis). Cannabis Sativa is tall and thin, generally growing between 8 and 12 feet in the wild with a light green colour and long thin leaves. The smell is generally sweet, fruity and mild. It is the predominant strain in Africa, Western Europe, the Caribbean, Latin America, South-East Asia and Southern India. Cannabis Indica is short and squat, averaging between 3 and 6 feet in height, with dark green, short broad leaves. It smells “skunky” and strong. It is common in the Middle East, Central Asia (where cannabis is thought to originate) and Northern India. Cannabis Ruderalis grows from 4 to 6 feet in height and resembles a short, branchless sativa. It is found in Eastern Europe and the Russian Steppes. C. indica is cultivated almost solely for its psychoactive qualities while C. Ruderalis is a purely industrial plant. C. sativa can be harvested for both its industrial applications (hemp) and as a drug.

 

[shuggy4105]

thought i could`ve been talking:**: there,cheers for clearing that up for us Hick.

 

[THCskunk]

an eastern strain induced scientifically to perform early flowering.
although now crossing ruderalis with strains like mexican skunk#1,and other indica strains, a stablelized 100% auto flowering strain has been born, the original ruderalis were almost to be considered useless, because they were very unstable as opposed to having one flower much earlier than the other and some had buds that never ripened. but they are here and giving the same kind of high that of a regular photosynthesis growing plant. I read that the old ruderalis would give you a buzz not a high and sometimes resulting in headaches.

 

[THCskunk]

ruderalis is a mexican term used in the Mexican Civil War to identify an army with poor weaponry, but strong fighting and in numbers. how it got to eastern europe, I don't know, but what the russians and eastern europeans could not do, The southern latin strains of cannabis made this strain possible to be stable.

 

[picasso]

hey how you all doin?, as you will see i have only done 5 posts i think on this forum.....not sure of 'forum etiquette' !! never grown before....and never been on forums and talked to people from around the world before!!
so not sure if i'm butting in here?
cant load pics from camera, think lead is faulty but gonna print them then scan them in on monday,....one question though....got one definate female which im over the moon about,...but my best plant has 'love conkers'.....if i sacrificed a female to pollinate for seeds?......would i be able to put the pollinated female back in the growroom with the other plants without contaminating the others?
p.s. when i get camera working i will start agrow diary.

 

[Elephant Man]

A bit of text from DJ Short:

"Three subspecies

It is useful to agree, at least in theory, that there are three separate subspecies of the genus Cannabis – Sativa, Indica and Ruderalis.

Cannabis Sativa is the equatorial variety found primarily around 30 degrees latitude North or South. Sativa generally grow tall, from seven to thirty feet, have many long branches, narrower leaflets, and mature slowly.

Cannabis Indica varieties generally inhabit the areas between 30-50 degrees North or South latitude. Indica are generally much shorter than Sativa, only about three to five feet tall. They have fewer and shorter branches than Sativa, the longer of which are lower on the plant, with much wider leaflets. They also mature earlier and more rapidly than Sativa.

Cannabis Ruderalis grow naturally primarily past 50 degrees north latitude (the Siberian steppes). Ruderalis are the shortest, least bushy, and fastest maturing of the three.

The end of the sweet spots

Prior to the late 1970's, virtually all commercially available cannabis products came from the great outdoors. Many of these varieties had been grown in their particular region since antiquity – not since the advent of sailing had a greater diversification and distribution of the herb occurred.

Most cannabis available was also very well acclimated to its particular region of origin. Certain places tended to produce very unique and desirable types of herb that were renowned to each region. I like to refer to these high-quality cannabis producing areas as "sweet spots." The products coming out of these sweet spots during this era were among the finest herbs ever available.

A series of phenomena occurred in the late 1970's and early 80's that has since revolutionized the cannabis industry. This series included the triad of sinsemilla, High Intensity Discharge (HID) lighting, and the introduction of Indica genetics, coupled with draconian herb laws that drove the industry far underground. Never before in human history was so much genetic diversity of cannabis grown in such generic, indoor conditions. The results of this phenomenon have wreaked havoc on the cannabis gene pool.

The road to blandness

As Indica, sinsemilla and HID lighting became predominant, it became apparent that Sativa varieties were very difficult to coax commercial amounts of sinsemilla herb from indoors. The fast maturing, dense bud structure of the easy-to-grow Indica soon dominated the indoor grow scene.

Another factor contributing to the desirability of the indoor Indica was its truebreeding "dioecious" nature, meaning that individual plants tend to be male or female only, but not both. In contrast, many Sativa strains show hermaphroditic tendencies indoors, with male and female flowers on the same plant. (It is my opinion that wild Sativa strains of cannabis are primarily truebreeding hermaphroditic varieties.)

As outdoor production diminished due to intolerant laws and the drug war, indoor production of Indica phenotypes became the staple of the commercial indoor grower. The road to generic blandness had begun.

Although some Sativa/Indica crosses matched some of the Sativa flavor and head high with the Indica bud structure, this desirability would only last for a few generations of breeding. Unless a person is breeding for a very specific trait, crosses seven generations and beyond the original P1 Indica/Sativa cross lose much of their original charm and desirability. Cloning, however, helps to extend a given plant's potential.

Ruderalis: myth and misnomer

As indoor growers attempted to improve their genetic lines via breeding, another interesting phenomenon occurred: Ruderalis. Although there is a wild variety identified as Ruderalis in Russia ("Ruderalis" is supposedly Russian for "by the side of the road") that grows very short and matures very fast, I seriously doubt the rumor that someone actually went to Russia to collect seeds of this variety sometime in the past. Or, if someone actually did go all the way to Russia to find, collect and smuggle "rudy" seeds, I do feel sorry for their waste of time. They could have gotten the same worthless thing from Minnesota, Saskatchewan or Manitoba with much less hassle.

The North American Ruderalis probably originated as follows: After the Indica varieties arrived in the US and became incorporated into the gene pool, many breeders began to cross the earliest maturing individuals with each other in hopes of shortening the maturation cycle.

It would only take a few generations for the ugly Rudy phenotypes to begin expressing themselves. By ugly, I am referring to a strong lack of potency and/or desirability. I know, I was once guilty of the practice myself. It did not take me long to realize that this was a huge mistake in regard to the quality and potency of the future generations' finished product, and all subsequent breeding along this line was ceased.

Many of these manipulated rudies were released on the open market between 1981 and 1986. It was shortly after this period that the grow journals of the era (Sinsemilla Tips and High Times) ran articles about the possibility of a new wonder variety for indoor grows: fast blooming Ruderalis. Rumor had spread to myth and misnomer. Therefore, it may be more appropriate to say that the Ruderalis phenotype was coaxed from Indica genetics, via the indoor breeding environment.

The same applies to many of the Indica dominant varieties available today. Breeders selecting for early, fast flowering or fast growth often miss out on some of the finer and more subtle characteristics available from crossing certain genotypes. My advice to breeders is to wait until the finished product is suitably tested before coming to any conclusions regarding desirable candidates for future breeding consideration."

end




Maybe you guys don't know this but you do not need any 'special' strain of MJ to flower without vegging. All MJ species and strains will veg until mature, even under 12/12...usuallly in 3-4 weeks and then they will flower. Germ whatever beans you got in flower and you will get the same thing...little plants.

 

[THCskunk]

There is a big difference between "little plants" and a auto-flowering dwarf plant that does just that without changing the light schedule. Like said before, "There is no other cannabis right now that matures faster than that of the Lowryder" your info is pretty good and we appreciate it, but tell us something that we don't already know. Very good information though man, thanks for the help.
what link or website did you get this from?

 

[shuggy4105]

you broke it down well E-man,very interesting read
this is a great thread.

 

[Hick]

Since this was brought up...

The road to blandness.....
It would only take a few generations for the ugly Rudy phenotypes to begin expressing themselves.....Breeders selecting for early, fast flowering or fast growth often miss out on some of the finer and more subtle characteristics available from crossing certain genotypes......Never before in human history was so much genetic diversity of cannabis grown in such generic, indoor conditions. The results of this phenomenon have wreaked havoc on the cannabis gene pool.

I blieve the point DJ was aiming at here, is that the breeders consistantly selecting for, and breeding with early flowering pheno's/varieties has/is/will be detrimental to the overall genetic structure of "high" grade drug quality mj.
A "Breeder"(not a seed maker) once related it to me in this manner...
"If left to go feral, (grow wild), mj will revert to hemp within a few generations. Why?.. In the wild, the paternal side of the process is dominated by the "earliest" flowering males and/or hermies."
He concluded that the recessive traits found in the later maturing males, must be a key to improvement of drug grade cannabis. Pretty much the same thoughts that DJ short makes.
"Super" fast, early matureing plants may be all THE rage at the moment, and may serve a purpose to those with little patience, space or desirability for "top quality", but IMHO are NOT doing the gene pool any favors.
The origonal "landrace" strains, from the "Sweet spots" are virtually gone. Desirable genetics, characteristics have been lost forever. Thank goodness for those that have recognized it, and have/are attempting to preserve the diversity still left.

 

[shuggy4105]

so, does this mean that the strains going around today,are of a lesser quality/stability? should we as growers be attempting to cross breed strains, or does this reduce the strenghth/potency,by doing this without any "real" knoledge of the plants,of which we are crossing`s genetics?:stoned: :argue: :bong1: thanx for the info,all input is welcome.
cheers

 

[Elephant Man]

A "Breeder"(not a seed maker)

Very nice Hick, I feel the same way.

Both can create IBL's. Both can create mutants and total loss of vigor and potency. The difference is whether or not they know...and whether or not they know how it happened.

As long as you do not distribute seeds or pollen, I say go for it.

Nice comment on the males, I caught on to that from REv.

 

[Elephant Man]

There is a big difference between "little plants" and a auto-flowering dwarf plant that does just that without changing the light schedule. Like said before, "There is no other cannabis right now that matures faster than that of the Lowryder" your info is pretty good and we appreciate it, but tell us something that we don't already know. Very good information though man, thanks for the help.

This is an example of the 'little plants' I was talking about. I personally would rather wait another 4 weeks for one of these...and these can be cloned.

I don't know why you would want to breed something that has clearly been shown not worth messing with. Are you going to buy new lowryder 2 seeds everytime? Do you have a true-breeding Santa Maria father?

The first 3 pics were taken by my freind, Dutch breeder and grower in Holland, Atmosphere...the last pic is AK48 done by a bro named Haggis...just another grower...all born under 12/12. Add 3-4 weeks to your flower time and clone away.

 

[THCskunk]

example: you have 4 plants, and I have four plants. ok, so you harvest 4 in 5-6 weeks, I will have had harvested 3 times as much as you would. you will yeild around 900 grams in 6 weeks, I will yeild 750grams plus not to mention the ones already ready to harvest, see the picture, the faster you have it, the better. Now don't get me wrong, having strains like the ones you have are very good also, but my point is these plants are small and mature really fast, by the time one grower is going into veg stage with his/her's plants, Lowryder will be ready to smoke and still have way more room to fit times that. Its not how big if not how much of it you have in two months.....think about it. It's cool if you have a grudge against these strains, maybe you should grow some before bieng sceptic. I tell you this because I also would have the same attitude as yourself. But when your the type that needs to have the product fast and ready and still have another batch coming, you will start to see it. I currently have growing 256 plants growing in another area, all of which are strains from White Widow, Northern Lights, Ak-47, and all sorts of other strains that I don't even know what they are. You see, I also grow other strains other than Lowryder, but this little strain is something new for me and after growing 6-12' tall plants, these plants might do away with having the risk of me getting caught, less visilbe by far if you know what I mean man. So keep it cool and we appreciate your opinions and comments on this thread.
As far as breeding, if you read and research correctly, it clearly says that cloning is not worth doing, but also is advised to "POLLENATE" your female if you have a male, when they say they are stable, it is stable and 100% auto flowering. tell you what, you grow your's, and I will grow mine. Stop asking me why I would want to grow if you already know why I am doing it.

 

[THCskunk]

update....27th day

 

[Elephant Man]

. Stop asking me why I would want to grow if you already know why I am doing it.

I am discussing this strain with the entire internet. If this was a grow journal, I would not have posted. This thread is clearly a discussion of this strain.