Hushpuppy
Dr MadBud
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There are 2 ways of doing the supercropping method. Both methods incorporate the same functions of process. You basically go down beneath the canopy and take hold of the stem where there is space between the leaf/branch nodes, then with your fore-finger and thumb, you gently squeeze until you feel the tissues within the stem give and crush between your ffingers. You want to do this gently at first so that you don't over crush and damage the stem beyond repair, but don't worry, unless you are doing it to a seedling, it takes a lot of force to damage them beyond repair.
Some strains produce a very "woody" stem which is impervious to supercropping, Pineapple Chunk comes to mind, and the only way you can do SC is at the very smallest branches which are still sofft enough to crush. Some stems will be tougher than others to crush and you may have to reposition your fingers, or even do a little twist action to it. But when it is sufficiently done to all of the rising branches, they will stop stretching ffor 4-7 days while they repair those places.
This does put some stress on the plants while in flowering so I wouldn't recommend it ffor using on "bagseed" plants as the genetics usually aren't strong enough to handle that stress and could herm from it. But if you know the genetics of your plants is solid then it shouldn't be any problem at all. Now you can do the SC method more than once on a single plant. If you can get below all of the larger branches and do it there, you wouldn't need to do it but once, but as that area of the stem is probably too woody to perform the SC on it, you will have to do the SC on every branch that is reaching for the light. Then after a week, when the plant begins to stretch again (if the flowering hasn't taken over yet and stopped the stretch), you will have to do a second round of SC on them.
The second part of the supercropping method is one that I have used on occassion, and that is to soften the stems enough to then bend them over horizontal. If you had enough space and had a few that were much taller than the rest, I would recommend doing that, but yours are all about the same and the second part wouldn't really serve you.
I hope this helps you
Some strains produce a very "woody" stem which is impervious to supercropping, Pineapple Chunk comes to mind, and the only way you can do SC is at the very smallest branches which are still sofft enough to crush. Some stems will be tougher than others to crush and you may have to reposition your fingers, or even do a little twist action to it. But when it is sufficiently done to all of the rising branches, they will stop stretching ffor 4-7 days while they repair those places.
This does put some stress on the plants while in flowering so I wouldn't recommend it ffor using on "bagseed" plants as the genetics usually aren't strong enough to handle that stress and could herm from it. But if you know the genetics of your plants is solid then it shouldn't be any problem at all. Now you can do the SC method more than once on a single plant. If you can get below all of the larger branches and do it there, you wouldn't need to do it but once, but as that area of the stem is probably too woody to perform the SC on it, you will have to do the SC on every branch that is reaching for the light. Then after a week, when the plant begins to stretch again (if the flowering hasn't taken over yet and stopped the stretch), you will have to do a second round of SC on them.
The second part of the supercropping method is one that I have used on occassion, and that is to soften the stems enough to then bend them over horizontal. If you had enough space and had a few that were much taller than the rest, I would recommend doing that, but yours are all about the same and the second part wouldn't really serve you.
I hope this helps you