PH question

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di-devol

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We just went to 12/12 using coco premix.

Ph from our tap is 7.3, after adding nutes, it's about 6.4.

Run off is at 7.1, I know I need to add ph down, but is it just math?

I mean if the run off is 7.1 and the nutes are at 6.4. And I need make the nutes at 5.7 I get the run off to be 6.4?

And what is Optimal for coco mix?

I have what lookes like a little bit of nute burn, but not sure. Since the ph is high I think I want to rule out the ph first.

Thanks in advance.

Nutes are Botanicare Organic Pro Bloom and Liquid Karma micro nute.
 
i dont grow in coco but i read that you cant overwater coco, so you could run ph'd water in you bucket several times over until your runoff ph is ok. i would try with ph of 6 and check the runoff. just a thought :) cheers
 
Adjust your water first to 6.3-6.5, then add your nutes and put the pH pen down. You'll be a happier person.

Good luck on that coco mix. I just changed over from FF OF to Organicare Pure Earth and it's giving me fits trying to dial it in. I have one plant that looks like it always needs water and one that never looks like if needs anything--same strain, same bag of seeds.

Good luck.
 
from the
Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 15 of 33
"pH and Water"



hxxp://www.lycaeum.org/~sky/data/mjgrowers.html


The pH is the measure of acid-alkalinity balance of a solution. It is measured on a scale of 0-14, with 0 being the most acid, 7 being neutral, and 14 being most alkaline. [pH:In case you're wondering, I'm a total 0!] Most nutrients the plants use are soluble only in a limited range of acidity, between about 6 to about 7.5, neutral. Should the water become too acidic or alkaline, the nutrients dissolved in the water become too acidic or alkaline, the nutrients dissolved in the water precipitate and become unavailable to the plants. When the nutrients are locked up, plant growth is slowed. Typically, a plant growing in an environment with a low pH will be very small, often growing only a few inches in several months. Plants growing in a high pH environment will look pale and sickly and also have stunted growth. All water has a pH which can be measured using aquarium or garden pH chemical reagent test kits or a pH meter. All of these items are available at local stores and are easy to use. Water is pH-adjusted after nutrients are added, since nutrients affect the pH. Once the water is tested it should be adjusted if it does not fall within the pH range of 6 to 7. Ideally the range should be about 6.2-6.8. Hydroponic supply companies sell measured adjusters which are very convenient and highly recommended. The water-nutrient solution can be adjusted using common household chemicals. Water which is too acidic can be neutralized using bicarbonate of soda, wood ash, or by using a solution of lime in the medium.
Water which is too alkaline can be adjusted using nitric acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid (Vitamin C) or vinegar. The water is adjusted using small increments of chemicals. Once a standard measure of how much chemical is needed to adjust the water, the process becomes fast and easy to do. Plants affect the pH of the water solution as they remove various nutrients which they use. Microbes growing in the medium also change the pH. For this reason growers check and adjust the pH periodically, about once every two weeks.
The pH of water out of the tap may change with the season so it is a good idea to test it periodically.
Some gardeners let tap water sit for a day so that the chlorine evaporates. They believe that chlorine is harmful to plants. The pH of the planting medium affects the pH of the liquid in solution. Medium should be adjusted so that it tests between 6.2-6.8. This is done before the containers are filled so that the medium could be adjusted in bulk. Approximately 1-2 lbs. of dolomitic limestone raises the pH of 100 gallons (4.5-9 grams per gallon) of soil 1 point. Gypsum can be used to lower the pH of soil or medium. Both limestone and gypmsum have limited solubility.
There are many forms of limestone which have various effectiveness depending on their chemistry. Each has a rating on the package.

This is what I've been doing, so far so good.
 
I think Pencilhead might be referring to the use of organic nutrients and the relationship between the natural organic process that beneficial beasties go through when feeding on soil composites and releasing waste that affect the pH in a natural and ideal way. Therefore don't kill off the beneficial beasties by using chemical-pH up/down, so use it prior? THAT'S A STRETCH FOR ME TO ASSUME THAT'S WHAT HE WAS SAYING! But someone broke it all down in one of my earlier posts, though my question had to do with organic vs chemical pH adjusted. Hope I didn't confuse anyone.

Adjust pH after nutes, heh.
 
That's wasn't what I was saying. What I was saying is that this Ed guy might be the greatest MJ grower of all times--or he might not be--but these old-school volumes everyone quotes are antiques, and, even if not, the info is antiquated.

Rosenthal and Cervantes are from the days when people used horse dookie and sheep hockey to grow with. Nowdays we use high-tech nutes and mediums all outfitted with pH buffers and adjusters. You can use enough pH up or down to completely salt your grow out and still not get a perfect run off pH wise.

Nutshelled: don't get so anal you forget to have fun and enjoy this sport. pH your initial water and trust that the high-dollar self-adjusting nutes will keep you honest. And, for God's sake, quit fixing what ain't broken.

JMO and I think I grow some pretty decent schtuff.;)

(Sorry, Ed and Jose--you guys know I love you anyway. Sorta/kinda.)
 
Follow the directions on your nutes. All I have ever used tell you to nute your water first and then pH it.
 
I asked the ph question because they weren't happy. I'm still learning the diagnosis part of this.

Apparently we were supposed to rinse the coco before using it lol. We just flushed with PH water till the run off went from a merky green to a more clean/clear. They look happier already.

Thanks to everyone.
 
Did you make your own coco mix? If so, then maybe the coco did indeed need washing--most of the coir products specific to our purposes have already been washed salt free and adjusted these days. There you go: another anachronistic rumor that's still floating around out there.

If you're using a store-bought pre-mix, wouldn't you be washing out all the worm castings and poultry/bat pooh and fish goo when you flush it?

And I'm not preaching to ignore your nute directions or ignore your instincts--I'm just saying don't forget that you originally got into this to ultimately enjoy yourself immensly. Maybe it's just me, but as a rule when I find myself so twisted up over something that I've got my head up my butt, I ain't enjoying scat.:D
 

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