The Contribution Contest

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Heres my entry [thread=19432]The-DIY-Grow-Tent[/thread] it was in the main diy forum but when i go there i dont see it so i did a quick search and found it. i wonder where its at though since i cant see it when i go to the diy section.
 
this is a great idea cant wait to read all the new info ,,hope we have some kind of contest in the future like this so i can contribute ,,i think i got a little more learning to do before i should get in on this








HAPPY GROWIN GUYS , TOM TOM
 
i posted in the wrong section because i had to re read this thread to be sure i could do more than one entry :hubba: so heres another from me [thread=20621]Germinating-in-rock-wool[/thread]
 
Perfect for growers on a budget.

Shopping List:

Purchase a 10.5" or greater reflector. anything smaller and you risk the cord not being capable of carring the current.

Purchase 4 Compact Florescent Lights (CFL's).

I like to use 2 for each spectrum of light.

Purchase 3 "y" adapters

Purchase one Socket extension


Assembly:

Step 1. Positioning the fixture. Depends on how you want to hang your fixture: (i like mine to hang centered in my mother cabinets. I drill a hole barely big enough for my CHORD to fit through. Your asking yourself, "How do i get the plug end through there"....(head scratcher)

Answer: Disassemble the light fixture end. the chord can be removed from the fixture. Be very careful not to drop the fixture. they are fragile. Put the chord through the hole and reassemble.

Now the easy part:

Step 2. Socket Extension

Step 3. "Y" adapters

Step 4. Lights

Step 5. Connect to timer. Done!

quad1.jpg


quad.jpg


quad2.jpg


quad3.jpg


quad4.jpg
 
O.K., so you are done harvesting/drying/curing and you have more bud than you have ever seen in your life at one time. After you recover from your week long binge and your head clears a little, you decide to use some of that extra bud you have laying around to make keif, but you don't want to spend money on bubble-bags or even a silk screen. Well, here is a cheap and easy way to do just that.

Now, the quality won't be as good as using bubble-bags, but it will still knock you on your behind.

What you need:

* Some "extra" bud. Make sure it is very dry. This will work for trim also, but it would be too much physical labor for what you get (IMHO).

* A baking dish with at least 1 inch sides

* 1 quart Canning Jar. The kind with the 2-part lid.

* Small rubber ball (I used a little ball I borrowed from my cat. Yes, I washed it first...)

* Metal basket. You will see why.

* Panty Hose. Clean or dirty (that would be your personal choice). I prefer clean. You could use a 110 mesh silk screen instead and that would give you a cleaner and purer hash, but then you have to find the silk-screen material.


Got all your stuff together? Good. Let's get started.

1) With the metal basket in the baking pan, take your buds and crumble them into the metal basket.

PHH-02.jpg


2) Rub the buds so that they will fall through the mesh. You don't really need to do this step, but it helps to get out any seeds, stems and branches.

PHH-03.jpg


3) Now pour all the "crumble" into the canning jar and toss in the rubber ball.

4) Take the Panty Hose and cut a piece out that is large enough to cover the opening in the jar and hang down the sides a bit.

PHH-07.jpg


5) Stretch the Panty hose over the top of the jar and use the "ring" part of the lid to hold the hose in place. Do not use the flat metal part of the lid. Don't stretch the Panty Hose too tight over the lid or the holes that the "pollen" falls through will be too big. It will be a little loose, but that is fine.

PHH-08.jpg


6) Now, shake the jar over the baking pan. The rubber ball will agitate the buds and help knock off the keif. You will want to shake for about 5-10 minutes.

PHH-09.jpg


7) After your arms tire-out, you should have a nice pile of keif.

PHH-10.jpg


PHH-11.jpg


8) Enjoy!

:hubba:
 
The Deep Water Culture method of growing can be used in a variety of ways. From basic single plant containers, to very complicated multiple container, single air source, expandable systems. 5 gallon buckets and Plastic tubs of different sizes are the most popular growing methods. I've seen 2 litre bottles to bathtubs utilized. Imagination is the key.

The concept of DWC is to have your plant roots hang down in highly oxygenated, nutrient rich solution. I will be describing the fundamentals of the system and how to construct a very simple, yet hassle free setup. This system provides the benefit of easy upkeep and maintanence for med growers, as well as the ability to leave the system untouched for extended periods of time. DWC is very basic, no frills hydroponics. There are no spray nozzles, return lines, feeder lines, or water pumps to clog. No reservoirs or float valves to overflow or jam leading to a very reliable system.

All of the necessary materials can be bought at Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot, Osh, pet stores, nurseries, etc. You can pick this stuff up anywhere.

Ok.....lets get started.

First we need to gather our shopping list:

15amp or greater power strip
Resivior (Strong Box Highly Recommended)
30-60 Gallon air pumps
1/4" clear aquarium tubing (10+')
6" airstones
5/8" or greater rubber donut grommet
5/8" or greater 90* elbow
5/8" or greater tubing 2'-3'
6" Netpots
Hydroton


This setup is recommended to be used in a space approx. 4'X3'X6' or larger for beginners.

Tools Needed:

Drill/bits (1/4" & 5/8")
Saber Saw
File
Paint - White(Flat)
Sharpie


Construction:

OK.......lets start with the strong box.

DWCtest.jpg


The reasons you want this box are, its the strongest box i've found and it comes in black. If you skimp on a couple bucks here and get a flimsy, thin walled, plastic container, the lid is going to sag and your plants are going to lean in. The Strong Box's black plastic is impenetrable to light and helps prevent algae growth. Due to the box already being black, it eliminates the hassle and time of painting for a light barrier later.

While the lid is still on the box. Grab the 6"netpots you will be utilizing. Space them out evenly providing as much space between them as possible. I recommend 4 plants or less in this container. Trace around your netpot with your sharpie. You should end up with circles on you lid identifying the areas to be removed.

Drill a hole inside the circle you just traced. Use a drill bit large enough for your sabre saw blade to fit in. Using the circle you traced for REFERENCE, cut 1/4" INSIDE the line. When finished you should have a hole a 1/4" INSIDE the hole you traced. You should still see your original sharpie line and have a 1/4" lip inside of it. Your 6" netpot will now slip into that hole without needing anything to support it. (File as needed, cut inside the line, but not to much LOL)

Now spray paint the outside of your lid flat white while its REMOVED from the box. You will need to scrub and clean your container inside thoroughly prior to use to remove contaminants. Not having a bunch of white overspray will save you time.

DIY_DWC.jpg


Now Drill a hole in the lowest area possible on your box. Preferably your box should be slightly elevated from the ground.(Gravity Drain) If your container itself is elevated, put the drain in the bottom. If you growbox is elevated and your container sits on its bottom in the grow box, you'll need to put it through the side. Dont even mess with trying to improve the drain, i've yet to find a better way. if you have the right grommet it will never leak. The grommets can be found at hydro/grow shops, HD's, and Lowe's. Unfortuneatly i don't know the name but is a round donut shaped grommet with a slit around the outside diameter of the grommet. They are usually found in the hardware drawers in most hardware stores.

A barbed piece of irrigation tubing is penetrated throught the grommet. Get the elbow.

drainfitting.jpg


DWC2.jpg


drainholder.jpg



As long as your drain hose is elevated above the water level in the DWC, the water will not drain. Every 2 weeks or sooner if needed, just lower the drain hose and the water will drain.

Lets run the airlines into the box. Depending on the brand of pump you purchased, and the number of pumps you will be using, you will need to drill the appropriate amount of 1/4" holes through the SIDE of you box. I recommend Whisper pumps.

DWCWhispers.jpg


They are quiet and they have rubber pads to reduce vibration. Keep the holes as HIGH as possible but below where your lid overlaps. You don't want to be hassling with the airlines if you need to remove your lid for any reason.

DWCairlines.jpg


Place your airstones centered under the holes you cut in the lid. Keeping the airstones down is a pain in the arse. I've tried many adhesives. Aquarium cylicones, hydro weld, etc. they seem to all come loose over time. I like weighting down the stones the best. Connect your stones to your 1/4" Lines which are run through the holes you drilled and connected to your pumps. The pumps should all be plugged into the 15amp power strip. They will be running 24/7 throughout your grow.

Well.....i think thats about it for the construction of the DWC unit! Simple eh?

Lets fill this baby up and test her out. Add water filling up the container just below the netcups. Check for leaks. everything cool? Sweet!

Dump that water out and lets position the container right where you want it in your grow space. Its going to get to heavy to move once filled. Rinse your hydroton under a faucet and then leave in the full sink to soak and absorb water. Next place your clones or rockwool cubes in the netcups. You want your rockwool cube or clone roots under the hydroton to prevent light accessing and causing algae. Make sure your netcup is filled with enough hydroton to prevent light from accessing the container as well. With your netcup placed in the resivior, the water level should be 1" - 3" below the bottom of the netcups. The roots will obtain plenty of moisture from the bursting bubbles and humidity created. As the water level decreases, the roots will "chase" the water down. Eventually the roots will grow into the resivior. This is a good thing. Add to the water level keeping it fairly consistent at 2" - 3" below the netcups. Keep a close monitor of the PH (5.8 - 6.1). Drain the water every couple weeks to prevent root rot and to keep PPM in line. The roots are now going to be receiving their oxygenation from the airstones. 4 to 6, 6" airstones are ideal for this setup.

There are many uses for the DWC setup in your grow room. Mothers, clones, veg'n, flower room, are all candidates.

here's are some examples.

As described
DWCSetup-1.jpg


5 gallon Mother / cloner
motherandcloner.jpg
 
HEY FAM IJUST READ THIS GUIDE THAT COULD HELP US OUT ALOT WITH ROOTING SO I HOPE THIS HELP'S ALL:holysheep:INDOOR GARDENING WITH PERLITE

Indoor Applications PERLITE
Water, Air and Light PLANT GUIDE
The Perlite Institute Inc.
1924 North Second Street
Harrisburg, PA 17102 USA
tel. 717-238-9723 fax. 717-238-9985
Email: [email protected]

INDOOR GARDENING WITH PERLITE
The green revolution has led to the introduction of hundreds of unheard-of plants and has resulted in
new life for old favorites. One reason why people grow plants indoors is their ease of culture. In days
past, plant lovers would go into the garden and scoop up some soil which they would mix with rotted
manure or other compost and use it to pot their plants. Fortunately they can now rely on modern
growing mixes containing perlite, sphagnum peatmoss and other components. These mixes are
readily available at garden centers, some hardware and department stores.
Perlite is a volcanic material that, when heated to 1600 deg.F (850 deg.C) makes an excellent
ingredient for house plant growing mixes. Perlite particles create tiny air tunnels, which allow moisture
and oxygen to flow freely to roots. This is important since 98% of all oxygen a plant gets is absorbed
through its roots. Poorly drained growing mixes shut out oxygen; root "pumps" shut down and the
plant dies from suffocation.
Over-watering is the cause of perhaps one half the cases of plant failure. Perlite in a growing mix
serves as a "life guard", not only promoting good drainage but allowing precious oxygen to flow to
roots.

Perlite makes moisture, oxygen and nutrients readily available to plants. Because of the unique
shape of each particle, plus its permanency, moisture and nutrients can cling to the crevices until the
plant needs them, while the granular quality provides quick drainage of excess moisture and allows
space for oxygen - vital for healthy plant growth.
Commercial growers as well as home gardeners can buy perlite mixes or make their own. Equal parts
of perlite and sphagnum peatmoss and sand (or rotted compost or loam) makes a fine growing mixwhile equal parts of sphagnum peatmoss and perlite make an excellent seed starter.

"COMMERCIAL GROWERS AND HOME GARDENERS HAVE FOUND THAT PERLITE IS THE
IDEAL ROOTING MEDIUM..."

Perlite for Increasing Humidity Around Plants
Since the average home is extremely dry when the heating system is operating, plant foliage often
takes on a scorched look on tips and edges. One way to overcome this is to set trays of water in the
plant area and add perlite. Set the plants on the perlite which should be kept moist. Water is slowly
released into the atmosphere, benefiting the plants.
Perlite Reflects Light
Cloudy winter days often result in poor houseplant or seedling growth. Light coming in a window can
be greatly increased by placing perlite in the bottom of plant trays and on the surface of the growing
mix where light rays will be reflected back up to plants. This can make the difference between spindly
plants and good stocky growth. The same applies if plants are being grown under fluorescent lights.
Just be sure perlite is kept moist so you can take advantage of the extra humidity.
Watering Plants
Frequency of watering depends on the type of plant and size. Most plants prefer the growing media to
be "just moist" at all times. Some plants, like Jade plant and large-leaved Ficus like the growing
media to become almost dry before water is applied. Care should be taken however, to see that the
growing media does not become so dry as to cause dropping of leaves or shrinking of the soil ball to
the point at which a space forms between it and the pot. When this happens, water rushes down the
inside of the pot rather than wetting the root zone. If this happens, or if leaves drop because of lack of
water, set the pot in a large pan of tepid water until the whole root ball is moistened. The plant will
respond, usually within half an hour. Plastic pots hold moisture longer than unglazed pots, which
have pores for air to pass through. Since the soilless mixes contain much lightweight material, you
can usually tell by lifting the pot whether or not the mix has dried out completely. With large pots, you
can push a wooden dowel probe (like a pencil) into the pot. If it comes out moist you know there is
still some moisture left.
Perlite for Starting Seeds
Fine perlite can be used alone as a seed-starting medium or it can be mixed half and half with
shredded sphagnum moss or shredded peatmoss. Many seeds have limited "pushing-up" power.
Perlite alone or perlite mixes are ideal for seed starting because they are light in weight. Moisten the
medium thoroughly, then sow the seeds on top. Very fine seeds can be atomized and left to settleinto crevices. Be sure the medium does not dry out. This can be prevented by keeping the seed box
subirrigated at all times, until seeds sprout. A plastic cover over the box helps maintain humidity.
Other seeds can be covered with a light dusting of perlite and sphagnum peatmoss.
Another requirement for good seed germination is a constant temperature (for most seeds) of 72 deg.
F (22 deg.C).
Water for sub-irrigation can be put directly in the planting tray or a plastic liner can be shaped to hold
water. Place the seed boxes in this liner and keep water in it.
"
PERLITE ALONE OR PERLITE MIXES ARE IDEAL FOR SEED STARTING..."
Another use for perlite in seed starting is to give better distribution of fine seeds. Take a clean salt
shaker and place about 1/4 inch (6mm) of very fine perlite (perlite may be poured into a sieve and the
fine particles shaken out) in the salt shaker. Pour the packet of seeds on top, replace the cap and
shake to mix in the seeds with the perlite. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the perlite/peatmoss
seedbed.
Perlite for Rooting Cuttings
Both commercial growers and home gardeners have found that perlite is the ideal rooting medium for
cuttings from ordinary houseplants or from woody shrubs, evergreens or vines. It is important to keep
the perlite moist at all times and to keep cuttings out of direct sun. If temperatures are cool, rooting is
hastened by applying bottom heat. Misting on warm days helps the cuttings retain moisture and
hastens rooting. Home gardeners can use a terrarium as a rooting chamber, whereas commercial
growers would use a greenhouse, coldframe or hotbed[:holysheep:
__________________
sin inc

SchundlerPerlite.jpg
 
Page 1..post #1....MarPs initial post..

.Don't go and steal content from other sites, that is not allowed. And we can very simple check out if you've stolen content or not. If you do, you risk your membership status........A good way for answering question is by looking to answers on other sites, don't just go copy and paste these answers but rewrite them into your own words. That's totally legal, nothing wrong with that.
 
Was out shopping this morning (christmas returns and exchanges :hubba:) so while the some waited i perused the stores lighting sections. While out i was able to get a look at different brand CFLs and took general info that we seem to need here on the site and made it one easy (IMO) chart for use. THESE ARE THE MOST COMMONLY FOUND CFLs many brands but all the little spiral bulbs that fit any household fixture. Remember that when using CFLs 2700K for flower and 6500K for vegging :bong2:

EDIT: FYI i was in 5 different shops to gather this info aobut 8 different brands were used in the process.

screen shot of CFL table.jpg
 
MarPassion said:
This contest will be running until the end of this month December.

At the end of the month members will be voting the winner.

The prize for the winner will be a secret. But all the mods and myself promise you that it will be a great prize ;)

so whens the vote im ready to have my butt handed to me again :spit:
 
Sorry for being late. Feel free to use this stuff if you are still updating.
Different way to roll a joint.
Cleaning pipes.
If you are looking for a dry box.
Stealth cloner even though it failed for me, I think its working with my peat pellet cuttings.
The cooler sweat, I think, is the best one. It's still evolving I couldn't build it in six days. :doh:

Was I supposed to cut and paste each one here or were the links fine? Feel free to edit or tell me I need to format.
 
Just so you all know MP is away on vacation. Once he returns we will go from there. ;)
 
i had wondered where hes been at hadn't seen him on in a bit, now i know hes out on Sadhu sabbatical :hubba:
 
to roll a dutch, get a dutch obviously, lick the entire cigar so that its moist. now u can either break off the tip that you would smoke from or unravel the entire outer leaf. to unravel the entire leaf, start out at the part where u light it and look for the edge of the leaf, its not hard to find its usually the darkest. so ur gunna follow that all the way the the other end and ur gunna peel itback. when your tryin to find the end where to peel it, the leaf is sumtimes wrapped on itself several times so jus scratch off the top until u find it. be sure not to rip the leaf when your unraveling it. when you first start out, unraveling could be the most difficult. ok so now u have the outer leaf n ur jus gunna dab ur tounge across the innner part of the leaf jus to make it moist. now ur gunna take the cigar and scratch off the gray paper but dont cut the inner leaf! after that ur gunna find the straight line where the cancer strip is. take a blade or sumtin sharp and cut it down that line. throw out the guts and either rip or peel off the cancer strip( the part thats glued). now fill it up with weed. put the majority in the middle and leave the ends empty. start rolling it as if u were rolling a joint but dont twist the ends. dont worry if its not perfect rite now. now takethe outer leaf and place it on a hard surface and make sure its still moist but not too moist. place the inner leaf part at a small angle ontop ofthe outer leaf. now ur gunna roll it like a cigar roller would roll his cigar. if u rolled the inner leaf loose then you might want to fold the extra inner leaf as ur rollin the outer leaf. dont roll it too tight so u can pull it. after ur done rolling roast the dutch to dry it and make it stiff. light up and toke.
did any of that make sense? it might be a little clearer if u were doin it while reading it. grab extra dutches cuz you'll need em
 
i know how to roll one but thats useful for a noob, ive seen the how tos for joints and pipemaking....i never thought of giving a how to to roll a blunt. great idea thanks for contributing!
 
allgrownup said:
Perfect for growers on a budget.

Shopping List:

Purchase a 10.5" or greater reflector. anything smaller and you risk the cord not being capable of carring the current.

Purchase 4 Compact Florescent Lights (CFL's).

I like to use 2 for each spectrum of light.

Purchase 3 "y" adapters

Purchase one Socket extension


Assembly:

Step 1. Positioning the fixture. Depends on how you want to hang your fixture: (i like mine to hang centered in my mother cabinets. I drill a hole barely big enough for my CHORD to fit through. Your asking yourself, "How do i get the plug end through there"....(head scratcher)

Answer: Disassemble the light fixture end. the chord can be removed from the fixture. Be very careful not to drop the fixture. they are fragile. Put the chord through the hole and reassemble.

Now the easy part:

Step 2. Socket Extension

Step 3. "Y" adapters

Step 4. Lights

Step 5. Connect to timer. Done!
hey bro, here's plan B. for the exact same thing but a bit cheaper i think, not sure i'll do the math later, you should too! but its the same thing! crazy eh? this works well too!
S7300030.JPG

lmfao this is pretty self explanitory.
S7300027.JPG

and y0, i do use your method to some extent, but only with the bigger bulbs, specifically my T-4's.
S7300031.JPG


cheers mate.

Dc

p.s. here's the plant thats under this setup.
S7300002.JPG

by no means am i trying to take over, just adding too his already awesome explanation!
 
AlienBait said:
O.K., so you are done harvesting/drying/curing and you have more bud than you have ever seen in your life at one time. After you recover from your week long binge and your head clears a little, you decide to use some of that extra bud you have laying around to make keif, but you don't want to spend money on bubble-bags or even a silk screen. Well, here is a cheap and easy way to do just that.

Now, the quality won't be as good as using bubble-bags, but it will still knock you on your behind.

What you need:

* Some "extra" bud. Make sure it is very dry. This will work for trim also, but it would be too much physical labor for what you get (IMHO).

* A baking dish with at least 1 inch sides

* 1 quart Canning Jar. The kind with the 2-part lid.

* Small rubber ball (I used a little ball I borrowed from my cat. Yes, I washed it first...)

* Metal basket. You will see why.

* Panty Hose. Clean or dirty (that would be your personal choice). I prefer clean. You could use a 110 mesh silk screen instead and that would give you a cleaner and purer hash, but then you have to find the silk-screen material.


Got all your stuff together? Good. Let's get started.

1) With the metal basket in the baking pan, take your buds and crumble them into the metal basket.

PHH-02.jpg


2) Rub the buds so that they will fall through the mesh. You don't really need to do this step, but it helps to get out any seeds, stems and branches.

PHH-03.jpg


3) Now pour all the "crumble" into the canning jar and toss in the rubber ball.

4) Take the Panty Hose and cut a piece out that is large enough to cover the opening in the jar and hang down the sides a bit.

PHH-07.jpg


5) Stretch the Panty hose over the top of the jar and use the "ring" part of the lid to hold the hose in place. Do not use the flat metal part of the lid. Don't stretch the Panty Hose too tight over the lid or the holes that the "pollen" falls through will be too big. It will be a little loose, but that is fine.

PHH-08.jpg


6) Now, shake the jar over the baking pan. The rubber ball will agitate the buds and help knock off the keif. You will want to shake for about 5-10 minutes.

PHH-09.jpg


7) After your arms tire-out, you should have a nice pile of keif.

PHH-10.jpg


PHH-11.jpg


8) Enjoy!

:hubba:
hey home slice, i happen to have a silk screen laying around and took a pic for your tut... here ya go bro!
S7300026.JPG


lates bro.

Dc

p.s. i'll repost Water Curing..
 
As a quick aside, what about maybe starting a thread for questions and to do, that way the people writing articles for our very own growfaq could just peruse the list of questions and needed articles and choose one to write. A little more direction might help, I would love to be a part of this project though.
 

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