tobbacco plants

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Hi --

I have a couple of friends growing two strains of rustica tobacco that I should be able to get enough seeds to sell a few later this Winter.

Rustica is generally used to make a tea for organic insect controls and to beef up the nicotine in the modern cigarette tobacco varieties which are deliberately bred weak in nicotine. Some poeple also claim that adding 5% rustica to the cigarette blend adds a very nice taste to it.

I plan on growing at least 30 of them this coming season. They are very small plants and so have small yields as well, but are prolific with seeds capsules and apparently mature quickly.

Bob
 
Bob,
First things first-You can post links to other sites in your sig, but they can't be live. Change the http to hxxp then post the link. That way other members can copy your link to their browser, change the hxxp back to http, and visit the link you posted.
If you want to post a link to a section of this site for reference or to help someone, that is totally allowed and encouraged.
It is a vital security measure.
ok-nuff said.

Yes TA10 is what it is. Like I said it reminded me of a chesterfield, but mine may not have matured properly cause of soil conditions, which I will be working on for next time.
I still have the Tennessee red leaf seeds so I may give it a go.
Thanx for confirmation.
Latah.
Gb
:)
 
Hi --

Thanks for the explanation!

I saw what you did and had the rule learned, but wasn't quite sure why....

Telling when leaves are ripe is a topic of great discussion among tobacco growers. The rule of thumb is that the leaves are ripe 3-4 weeks after the first bloom opens. Of course, that's pretty useless since most everyone tops the flowers in order to make the plant put more energy into making big, thick leaves. Also, some plants, particularly flue-cured varieties, are harvested as the bottom leaves start to yellow, then they are picked. Therefore you may start harvesting at any time and not complete it for weeks after.

For flue-cured types, the ripeness of the leaves can be seen by comparing the bottom-most leaves (also known as dirt leaves or lugs) with the bigger ones up higher, called money leaves since that's all the buyers will purchase. The money leaves begin to get a very thick texture, a crinkly look almost like bubble wrap and yellow highlights. The dirt leaves will never get there. Of course, a burley tobacco will not normally get the yellow highlights but will get the heavy leaves (they aren't flue-cured, nevermind what flue-cured means for now). Burley will normally be harvested whole stalk, hung to color-cure a darker brown, then the leaves are removed, dried and are ready to smoke within a couple of months. Cigar and pipe tobacco is done by whole stalk too.

To confuse matters even worse, oriental tobaccos, such as the Turkish, are sun-dried! And any or all of the above can be fire-cured! Tobacco was first seen used in Europe in about 1550 and since then, the methods of treating it have exploded! Don't get me talking about Perinque....

Bob
 
Hi --

I thought I'd talk a little about how to grow the tobacco outside in a field now. I've already talked about starting the seeds indoors 6-7 weeks before your first average frost, but what do you need to do in the field to prepare to plant and what about during the growing season?

Picking the field - Tobacco requires full sunlight all day. The location of the field should give the maximum of direct sunlight without shade possible. At the very least, you must have 8 hours of full sunlight. Try to make sure the field isn't on a hillside with an extreme slope unless you are able to control flooding and runoff erosion. Make sure the field isn't in a place where flooding occurs and water is likely to stand. If so, you may need to consider using raised beds. Tobacco does not like to have its feet in standing water.

The first thing to be aware of is that the soil should be well-worked. If it is a new field, then a deep plowing is usually required. This should be done NOW NOW NOW! (early Fall) If you do not have access to a tractor and a plow and are growing a small crop of 150 plants or less, then you can use a heavy garden fork. Go down the row and put the fork as deep in the ground as you can, lever up the soil and turn it over and continue until it is done. After that, till the top 8 inches or so to prepare to put the transplants out in the spring.

Next, it makes good sense to amend the soil almost anywhere you are located with a good composted manure. If you can, get a soil test at your local ag extension and follow their directions for adding nutrients and adjusting the ph. Ideal ph for tobacco is about 6.8, just slightly acidic. If the ph is too low, you can add lime. If it is too high, you can add pelleted sulphur. These amendments are available at a reasonable price at a feed store.

Tobacco does not like highly fertile soil. In fact, the best tobacco quality comes from sandy soils poor in nutrients. You add what the plant needs, just enough for it and no more. Unlike tomatoes which are heavy feeders, tobacco should be fed just enough to grow the leaves you want then starved for nutrients so that it does not store up a lot of nitrogen compounds in the leaves and stems. In this manner, you make it easier to color cure after harvest (I will write a section on curing after harvest later).

Hardening the transplants - About a week before you put them in the field, place them outside during nice weather starting at a couple of hours of light a day and ending up with them in full sunlight. Beware of freezes. Beware of high winds. Beware of the pots completely drying out.
I typically put out the transplants and put about 1/2 cup of Miracle Grow (or other full-nutrient liquid fertilizer equivalent) on each plant. In the hole, before I plant them, I put 1 tsp of epsom salts and a handful of compost and mix it up. Be SURE to plant the transplants deep! You can remove the bottom 2 leaves or so if you like. If the transplant is 6 inches tall, plant at least half of the stem under the ground! Tobacco will root from the stem like tomatoes, and this will give it a much bigger root system faster. It will also reduce the problem of plants falling over in the field later.

One week later, I side dress the plants with a dry fertilizer. The type you will need will depend a lot on your soil test, but if you didn't get one your local feed store will advise you on what is best. Half of the nitrogen should be in a slow release form. You can take a hoe and make a 3-4 inch deep trench about 6 inches from the plants along the row on each side and spread the fertilizer according to the lbs per sq. ft. needed then cover it up.

Watering -- The new transplants will not have an established root system to support the full sunlight. Expect them to wilt during the heat of the day but don't panic! They will usually rehydrate overnight as long as you supply some water to the roots. Water in the morning and never during the full light of the day no matter how wilted they look.

About 6 weeks after you plant them out, side dress again with the same fertilizer. That's all the fertilizer you will need for the year.

Ok, that's a pretty good description of how to get the field ready, to plant and how to get them started. Next I will talk about pest, fungus and weed issues and how to control them. Let me know if you have any questions.

Bob Kemp
 
Smokes tend to run about 60c a pop in this part of the world.

Funny thing; If I was busted growing one tobacco plant I'd be in more strife than a moderate quantity of mj.
 
Hi --

smokingjoe, I couldn't see where you are from, but from the word "mate" in your profile I guess you are in Australia?

By 60 cents a pop you mean per cigarette? $12 a pack? Wow!

You are right, it is illegal to grow tobacco in Australia. In fact, you seem to have the most extreme, tyrannical, irrational and abusive tobacco laws in any country I've seen so far. I heard of someone (ahem) who has smuggled tobacco seeds to 3 growers in Australia already. As a free American, I feel it is my duty to help countries throw off the chains of state dictatorships and help them become free, independent citizens.

This isn't anything new, really, in the history of tobacco. Countries have attacked tobacco users about every 50 years on average. What is funny is that Canada is now holding public debates on the effects of their punitive taxation on tobacco and how black market tobacco is so much cheaper than legal, taxed tobacco products that they are losing tax revenues. They are talking about lowering the taxes to increase revenues.

See the History of Tobacco posts here:

hzzp : //tobaccotalk.myfastforum.org/forum8.php

Resist tyranny! Don't let the bastards grind you down!

Bob
 
smokingjoe said:
Smokes tend to run about 60c a pop in this part of the world.

Funny thing; If I was busted growing one tobacco plant I'd be in more strife than a moderate quantity of mj.

Why? It is not illegal to grow tobacco...or is it in your Tobacco-lobby-controlled state?
 
Hi --

Strawberry Cough, that's why I asked him if he was in Australia. It is perfectly legal to grow your own tobacco at home in all American states. I believe it is illegal in Australia and possibly New Zealand as well.

Bob
 
Hi --
I suppose I should show y'all what it all ends up as after it's grown and dried. I've posted pics of various kinds of tobacco and a shameless plug to sell some here (sorry about the pun):

hxxp://tobaccotalk.myfastforum.org/about170.html

This is the 2009 crop, dried and ready to be used to make into cigarettes.

I'm smoking some now as I just had a group of folks over to taste some and have some left over. It's Virginia Flue-Cured, sometimes called "Gold" in some varieties for cigs, a common air-cured burley for cigs and some dark fire-cured burley for making chew/snuff/dip.

Tomorrow I'm going to describe some curing methods for cigarette tobacco. I know, I should talk about harvesting first, but who says I'm that organized?

Bob
 
Tobacco leaves can be extra/extra harsh and almost toxic if not handled properly by a beginner. I'm glad to hear there are some people who can actually grow some decent home~made tobacco in teh USA.
I stopped smoking cigarettes but, good luck, Bob Kemp!
It's too expensive for me but I would buy some of your tobacco................

.
 
bob_kemp said:
Hi --

smokingjoe, I couldn't see where you are from, but from the word "mate" in your profile I guess you are in Australia?

By 60 cents a pop you mean per cigarette? $12 a pack? Wow!

You are right, it is illegal to grow tobacco in Australia. In fact, you seem to have the most extreme, tyrannical, irrational and abusive tobacco laws in any country I've seen so far. I heard of someone (ahem) who has smuggled tobacco seeds to 3 growers in Australia already. As a free American, I feel it is my duty to help countries throw off the chains of state dictatorships and help them become free, independent citizens.

This isn't anything new, really, in the history of tobacco. Countries have attacked tobacco users about every 50 years on average. What is funny is that Canada is now holding public debates on the effects of their punitive taxation on tobacco and how black market tobacco is so much cheaper than legal, taxed tobacco products that they are losing tax revenues. They are talking about lowering the taxes to increase revenues.

See the History of Tobacco posts here:

hzzp : //tobaccotalk.myfastforum.org/forum8.php

Resist tyranny! Don't let the bastards grind you down!

Bob

G'day Bob,

You guessed it right.

A pack of Marlborough 20's hard pack is $11. If you smoked heavily it would pay to travel internationally regularly.

One will spend a little time on the inside for duty evasion, or a lot of time, depending on the quantity of tobacco seized.
 
tobacco grows like a weed! all of them.just throw some seed into some good common sense compost.the long thread above in bold is a very good example!thanks bob kemp for not having me to have to explain.you beat me to it.lol.good job bob.
 
oh yeah.cig price.
i get cigs at the reservation.they are equivalent to american spirits and are 21.00 usd per carton. (before tax law were 14.00 a carton).2.10 a pack.you can also find them online.p.m. me.peace.oh yeah,no additives and all cotton filters. i do not sale these ,just helping out the 11.00 usd per pack payers here.i make nothing in profit other than a smile for helping you find pure tobacco.cheers.
 
Hi --

I haven't been here for a while because I've been busy with many things lately. We knew a freeze was coming soon, so I had to winterize the greenhouse. Then sales on my new product "Decorative Whole Leaf Tobacco" ramped up. THEN Fox News affiliates across the country found my interview on growing tobacco at home and started running it in different markets which resulted in more tobacco seed orders. This is all good, but I really do want to maintain this thread, so here goes!

This is going to be a quick one. Harvesting tobacco isn't rocket science. There are basically two methods -- whole stalk harvesting and priming.

Whole stalk harvesting is typically done 3-4 weeks after a percentage of the plants in the field have broken buds. Almost all varieties of tobacco are harvested in this manner because it is the least labor intensive.

Whole stalk harvesting is just that - the whole plant is cut at the base of the stem. Then, it is either staked out upside down in the field in bunches on a sharpened stick to keep the leaves off the ground, or staked on a wagon specially made to haul the crop to the drying barn. To stake tobacco, the main stem is split near the base of the plant.

Priming is the harvest method which picks individual leaves off the plants as they yellow from the bottom-most leaves upwards to the top. This is the most labor-intensive method of harvesting tobacco and is generally used for high quality cigar tobacco for blending. Home growers of tobacco will frequently use this method as it makes it easier to color cure and they don't typically have quantities large enough that the labor expense is too excessive.

Priming, in commercial farming, is generally done one-third to one-fifth of the plant at a time. The bottom third, middle third and top third (for example) of the plant are picked in separate harvests. The leaves are picked by snapping them off at the base in a quick, downward motion although for some varieties of tobacco a special hatchet is traditionally used. They are then brought to the barn and tied or hung to begin the drying process.

A typical tobacco plant has roughly 18 usable leaves that are spread among 5 primings. From bottom to top, these primings are referred to as Volado, Seco, Viso, Ligero and Corona. These defined areas of the plant have special significance to cigar makers as they are stronger or weaker in flavor and are used to blend the cigar filler, binder and used as wrappers.

That's the basics of harvesting tobacco and I hope that helps you all.

As usual, should you find anything I need to add, alter or remove in this, please comment and I'll react appropriately! And ask any questions you like. For some reason, I don't always get e-mail notices of new posts. I'm going to have to go through my spam folder and see if some are ending up there.

Bob

REMOVED
 
Hi --

This is a very large topic and I won't try to completely cover all the pests and diseases which can affect and harm tobacco crops. Tobacco breeders have come up with resistant varieties for many of the wilts, viruses, fungi and molds. Similarly, insects which attack tobacco are of such a large number that I will not be able to mention them all here. There are beneficial insects also. I will simply try to cover the more common diseases and insect pests which are seen in tobacco crops. There are many references online by universities and trade-groups which can be found with a simple search.

Tobacco Diseases

Tobacco is subject to many diseases which are in the general categories of viruses, bacteria and fungi/molds.

Tobacco mosaic virus is often stated as a destroyer of tobacco crops. This is the virus most referenced however isn't the only one. Viruses are generally spread by leaf hopping and sucking insects but can be spread by using tools, implements and even hands which have contact with an infected plant and are then used to touch a plant which is unaffected. While there are chemicals which can reduce or minimize the damage of a virus in your field, for the home grower the best thing to do when an infected plant is identified is to remove it quickly and dispose of the plant far away from the rest of the crop.

Bacterial wilts can also damage a plant badly. In some cases, bacterial diseases can be overcome by the plant. But again, for the home grower the best solution is to remove the affected plant and destroy it.

Fungal and mold are one of the largest groups of potential crop-damaging diseases. Blue Mold, various blights and fusarium wilt are the most common of this type. There are soil treatments that commercial farmers use to reduce the soil-borne fungal diseases, but the home grower can generally only use good crop management. Good drainage in the field will reduce the incidence of many of the soil fungi. Rotating crops to different fields and removing the debris from last year's crops from the field will also help. Watering directly into the soil or only wetting the leaves in the morning when they will have all day to dry out will help reduce fungal diseases.

Insect Pests

As you might imagine, a field of luscious, leafy and succulent tobacco plants is a nice target for a bug to live in, eat and reproduce. The commonly seen bugs that harm the plants are various caterpillers, aphids, leaf hoppers and nematodes in the soil.

The most common caterpiller pest is the tobacco or tomato hornworm Manduca sexta. These caterpillers grow to a very large size, 2-3 inches long and as big around as your thumb and result from eggs laid by the hummingbird moth (also known as the hawkmoth or sphinx moth). The moth usually lays the eggs on the underside of the leaves (then can vary in color from white to green) and when they hatch, the caterpillers take off eating! A hornworm can strip a leaf in a single day! Voracious! You can pick off the hornworms by hand when you see them or the damage they cause. You can also examine the undersides of the leaves for the eggs and remove them. There are several reports that hornworms can be seen flourescing at night under a black light (long wave UV), but I have not seen those confirmed as yet.

Other common caterpillers on tobacco crops are the army worm, cutworm and sometimes the cabbage looper, among others. Since caterpiller damage directly reduces the yield of your crop, strong measures are used to control them (see insect controls below).

Aphids are very tiny insects generally found on the underside of the leaf and may vary from white, through shades of green and even tan or brown. Aphids are sucking insects. There are mobile varieties which fly and ones which only move around on the plants. Damage from aphids ranges from making spots on the leaves to nearly killing the whole plant in extreme infestations.

Leaf hoppers move from plant to plant laying eggs which hatch into larva and suck sap until they transform to adult form. These bugs are a vector which can spread diseases, viruses and fungus across a field fast.

Nematodes are an insect that lives in the soil and infests roots. "Galls" on roots are an indication that you have nematodes. The best way to control nematodes is to rotate the crop into different fields annually and to plant other crops in those fields which aren't susceptable. Commercial farmers will frequently fumigate a field with an insecticide to control them. There are tobacco varieties which have been bred to be resistant to nematode infestation.

Insect Controls

The most common control of caterpillers (and sucking insects like aphids and leaf hoppers) is the systemic insecticide called acephate, trade name Orthene. While some control of leaf-eating insects is gained by use of topical insecticides such as Sevin, the sucking insects aren't controlled nearly as well or at all.

Beneficial Insects and Other Organic Remedies

Lady bugs are the most common beneficial insects used to reduce the aphid populations. They can be bought at various stores and released in the field. The larva are very good at eating aphids. If you broadcast an insecticide on your crop, you will likely be removing the ladybugs which could reduce the aphid population, thus requiring the use of a systemic to control the aphids.

bT (Bacillus thuringiensis) is an organically qualified bacteria which, when ingested by a young caterpiller, will disrupt it's feeding and kill it. bT requires reapplication after rains and since it is only useful on young caterpillers, must be applied before you see the larger ones. bT can be expensive to use.

Insecticide Soaps (for example Safer Soap) are primarily used to control aphids and require frequent application.

Diatomacious Earth or DE is claimed to be a natural insect control and should be investigated as part of a complete organic pesticide control.

That's a general overview of the pests, diseases and other maladies that can affect your tobacco crop.

Bob
 
when marlboro's started to pass up the 6 dollar point i started buying hand rolling tobacco. peter stokkebye is real good, the "amsterdam shag" is what i smoke. 10.6 ounces for about 50 bucks, lasts me a couple months.
i recommend it....
 
Hi --

chuckdee123, since a carton is about 6 ounces, you have a very light smoking habit.

BTW folks, it's only about 7-8 weeks until it's time to plant your tobacco seeds indoors to get ready for Spring plantings.....get your seeds soon!

Bob
 
Hi --

Wow, that's really expensive. I think my homegrown tobacco cigs are costing me about 30 cents (USD) a pack of 20. And most of that cost is in buying the filter tubes for my injector. I'd sure like to meet someone who could tell me how to make cigarette papers from the stems of the tobacco leaves, maybe, or even with other tobacco leaf and homemade filters. Sounds like a project I oughta look into!

Bob
 
haha cool, i came in this forum to mention some baccy plants my wife and i picked up recently, 2 aztec jasmine tabacco plants, i had no idea! they are glorious! they smell delicious, look amazing, and hopefully clone well... ;) i just put 4 in a jar of water lightly lit, with a little rooting hormone, and one other in my experimental bubble cloner.

the plant is very oily, the guy at the store said it was very strong to be careful, we dont really plan on smoking any, but they are a great plant!
 

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