Newbie tent grow!!!!!

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Luckily I got some 90 degree collar fittings too while I was at home depot so I'm gonna stick that in the sock just to make the sock stay open and rigid. My concern is won't that let light in during the dark period.....I don't want to keep the room the tent is in completely dark during the light off period.....still need to see in that room

On my tents those flaps are down real low and I have never had problems with light...and I keep them open.
 
I'm thinking of running some flex ducting from one of the socks on down the tent and attaching it to the tent.close to the floor. That would stop light coming in I think and air is always cooler near the floor so it would be sucking in cooler air
 
Does it matter that I am sucking on air from the top of the tent and not the bottom....I can run flex ducting down to the bottom of the tent too
Just don't want too much of a run if I am ditching the intake fan and going passive
 
Since the warmest air is at the top of the tent pulling air from there makes the most sense.
 
No let me be more clear I am pulling air into the tent from the top of the tent due to vacuum pressure sucking air through that opening. In the tent pictured you would be pulling air into the bottom because of the flaps being at the bottom. In theory if i ran flex ducting from the bottom of my tent out through one of the socks located on the top wall not the ceiling and ran it down to the floor of the room the tent is in that will be the same result as the tent picture you posted with the flaps at the bottom
 
This is cool it's like live tech help.....now.only if you would guys would just fix.my problem for me like dell would doo
 
I say yes to the above question, although it would be best to have it coming straight through the bottom , less resistance from ducting. If you do it that way use the largest dia. ducting you have.
 
Alright I am officially running a passive cooling system. I took the intake fan out and did what I said above I would do. So far I'm at 79.5f and 52 percent humidity
 
Yeah that will work. It might not sound like much but getting the air from down low that is even a couple degrees cooler will help.

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OMG I just tried to replace all my flex ducting with rigid ducting a 6in rigid ducting won't fit over my filter....need to get a coupler to attach to the filter then the rigid ducting.....just letting any newbie like my self reading.....maybe next time get an inch bigger than you need just to make sure you can always seal it with foil hvac tape....or don't be a dumb *** like me and measure measure measure don't take given measurements for anything measure your self
 
Update. I know just have ONE 440cfm fan hooked up to my tent now. Its is resting on top of the tent it self. I also put hose clamps on all the fittings instead of relying on duct tape to attach every thing and keep everything together(I was just naive about how import good airflow was and over estimated how much a 440 cfm fan could pull.) All the places where there were hard 90 degree turns in the ducting I changed them to a more gradual C shape instead of a _| to help stop air being reflected back and removing all the resistance I can. I also ran flex ducting from inside the tent atthe bottom(resting a few inches from the bottom through one of the socks and down the outside of the tent and have it resting on the floor so air is being pulled from the floor of my room where air is cooler then at the middle or top of the room.....also opened up the 2in cable sock at the bottom of the tent so air could also be pulled from there and opened up a few of the other socks a little so there are multiple points air can be pulled into the tent to cool it. I understand passive cooling now......bet hemp wanted to go up side my head trying to explain that to me. God damn it boy you dont need to know why it works you just need to know it does damn it. Now do it. Sorry I am not mechanical at all. Seriously when it comes to this type of stuff and putting things together and know how things work.....not me....not in anyway.... Just my tent not having flaps at the bottom was throwing me off but I should have gotten it any way. My tent temperature is 73.2 and my thermostat in my house says its the 73.5. Its 40 degrees outside where I am and its only 6 but the fact that inside the tent is relatively the same temp as my room is promising. HAPPY 420 EVERYONE and stay safe.
 
Just wanted to post pictures of the changes I made to the ventilation setup keep in mind that I am not done changing things. Cant get to home depot for a little bit so I wont be able to add the rigid ducting just yet. So far so good though no problems with cooling at all. I didn't even have to open any windows so the changes you guys advised me to make are working and working well. Here are the changes.

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Also I have a sick plant.......I dont know whats wrong with it...This plant is the one that got a bit burned and bleached from being too close to the light(happend when I changed from the bulb that came with the light to an digilux bulb that put out way more lumens). And I didnt transplant this one to a larger container till a few days ago(just ran out of pots and didnt have any till I dug around in my garage and found its current pot. Those are the only differences in care compared to the others(which are thriving)

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It looks really green like lime green with almost yellow parts and really droopy....its been that way for almost a week now. Im sure the transplant a few days ago is contributing a bit to the droopy part of the problem but it needed more room and I gave this a good drink of water last night I split a gallon and a half between all my plants.....

Just to make sure Im watering correctly. I go by the weight of the pot. If its real light then I water. When I water I have been just pooling the water to the top of the pot....waiting for that to go down and do it again and then done. But last night I got tired of spot watering every night so last night I watered till there drip trays had a couple cm of water in it and then let them sit there for a few min. I emptied there drip trays and put them all back in the tent(i like to water in the bathroom or in a concealed spot outside because of the mess). Was that too much water......not even reading anything on other forums anymore just asking here. How should the wet and dry cycle be? How important is it? Just another newbie question...sorry
 
I think that is pretty close to what I do. Water till I get enough runoff so I can take tds and ph readings, let pot drain real well before I put it back into closet, make sure center of pot has drips on bottom because center of pot has the denser root mass so the water tends to run to the sides. I know it is time to water when the pot gets light and the leaves on the plant just start to droop. This works well for me.
 
I am trying to get more precise with my watering and feeding and so on and so on. Just been my kick lately....with fixing my vent setup which now maintains just a 4 degree difference(again you guys rock going into summer setup the way it was would not have been possible THANK YOU again) from the room it is in, I went ahead and cleaned up the electrical part too, I had a big wire ball behind the tent and now I've got the power strips mounted on the wall and the ballast mounted on the wall right above and shortened all the extension cords or removed them if I could just made everything look clean and gave the fans on the inside the ballast better access to the air flow in the room and sitting on carpet was keeping heat in which you do not want with electronics the cooler the better(with in reason). Back to my question I am at fox farms website and looking at there feeding schedule and it seems weird to me, like they want me to use big bloom and tiger bloom during vegging(goes against what I have been reading) and everything just seems to be a lot. You are supposed to feed twice a week. The schedule is for soil and I am using there soil so I have to assume they are using there soil as well and they are from humbolt county so they know what you are using the soil for.....Just would like someone with experience to take a look at it and tell me what they think please. Thank you

http://foxfarmfertilizer.com/images/pdf/SoilENG-Q2.pdf cut and paste if picture doesn't load right please

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I simply do not use that many products--to me it is ludicrous. I personally have found virtually all of the "extra" stuff they recommend as a waste of time and money. I use GH Flora 3 part series and add a little Cal-Mag in flowering. Period. None of this 10 additives garbage. Nuting your plants does not need to be that complicated and I question the benefit of most of the additives. Unless the company can tell you definitively what is in a product and how it benefits a plant and why you need it in addition to their nute line, I wouldn't use it.

Just because you are using FF soil does not mean that you have to use their nutes. Being in Humbolt County really doesn't mean much--there are a lot of nute lines formulated for mj.

I like to keep things simple.....and when you are starting out, I thin k that is important. I wouldn't get into a nutye regime like the one you posted. First of all, your nutes would cost a fortune and honestly, the benefits of all those different things is really questionable. Before you decide on a certain line of nutes, I would like you to look at GH nutes--so easy.
 
I totally agree with THG on the nutes and the extras. The problem is while they (FF) aren't trying to screw everyone that buys their stuff, they do want to sell product. So what they do is produce a "generalized" formula for nute regimen that is the highest use it can be without killing everyone's plants. What they don't tell you is that MJ is very specific about its needs and those needs vary ffrom strain to strain.

I most often use the formula that they offer as a general guideline ffor the ratios of the nutrients, then adjust everything down to 1/4th starting out then raise it each week until the plants are well grown and I think they are at max nutrient levels. Doing that takes a little practice so most people will slowly increase the dosage of nutes until they begin to see a small amount of leaf tip burn, then they back off just enough to stop the burn.

Some additives are important but most often all of the extra stuff is not necessary. Nearly all off the nutrients needed by MJ can be had in a basic 3part nute brand that is fformulated for MJ, like AN's Jungle Juice 3part, GH Flora 3part. Sometimes you do need some extra such as cal/mag supplement, or an occasional plant tonic can be beneficial, and the use of pH adjusters, but that is all most often.

I think some manufacturers strip down their 2 or 3 part base formulas to bare minimums then sell the extra P and K, and trace minerals (that were in the base) as additives.
I highly recommend ffor beginners to use the GH Flora 3part.
 
Thanks for taking the time to read and answer my questions I hope that you guys are seeing that I am not taking your advise for granted or its going in one ear and out the other. I am trying to take all your advise and act on it. If fox farms is really just trying to get you to use as much of there products as they possibly can then they are **. I also agree with everything you guys said and it clicked right when I read from you guys fox farms main job is to sell there product. Alright I already have ffarms grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom, kangaroots, comeback, bio brew and sledge hammer. I cant just keep throwing money at this so I want to just use what I got. Well I want to order GH 3 part line......but cant.
So if I were to just use grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom and micro brew, that would suffice, right?
 

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