Newbie tent grow!!!!!

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Well hush has given great advice up to this point so Im gonna stick to him like stink on.....well you get the point......Here are some pics. I am down to 6 plants from 10(3 were just barely into the veg cycle and one was left too close to the light after I switched to a digilux and got bleached and burnt and just stopped growing and was like 30% the size of the others so I said to hell with it and threw it out, figured more room for the healthy plants) Gonna be a lot of pics I took 3 of each at different angles also the last two pic are of some sort of problem......maybe a calcium or magnesium def. thats what pics say on here atleast on the sick plants part......

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I know this is a subjective question but how much should i be expecting per plant........just a rough estimate. what would you expect to get per plant?
 
All look a little wilted because I just split two gallons between them all a few hours before so they should perk up in a bit
 
All the pics you show are a PH issue. Get that corrected and your golden.

Yield is always strain dependent and vary hugely. I would say 1 to 2 zips per would be a nice accomplishment for this first grow, but don't be surprised if you have one under a zip. It happens...

If you can get proven clones in your area, they are proven and should perform. Seeds are always a crap shoot, but for a pheno hunter always the game.

If you have ordered your meters then so be it and I hope they work out for you. Personally, I see their equipment as "cheap" and very basic with little to no accuracy over time. Wish I had a Grant for every Hanna I have ever sent back. [Includes their salt water testing equipment]

Having tested over 20 meters and brands, I only buy Bluelab now a days. For a handheld, I feel there is nothing better and it does it all.
[No people, I do not work for them either]

http://www.megagrowers.com/bluelab-combo-meter/?gclid=CMfp4-it-b0CFSwdOgodBRkAgA

Meters will be the key to a plant with no spots and healthy fruit.
;)

Pheno selection will be the key to potency and yield.
 
Thanks ffor the nice words guys. I am happy to help, and am always pleased to see others get great results from my help. You can call on me any time. :)

PJ: I totally agree with you on the meters. I love and owned Bluelab pens. The only reason that I suggest Hanna to new growers is that it is a cheaper investment for the initial start. Also, ffor soil growers who stay soil, I don't think the pens are so critical as the individual gets more experienced. For hydro growing its a different ballgame. Your grow will live or die by the readings on the 2 meters. However, even in hydro, I rarely used my TDS meter (which was a Hanna) for 3years as I got so used to doing everything the same way every time once I had my method down.

It seems like soil growers get used to knowing what to give the plants by how they look and once they get used to using dolomite lime in their soil, pH is rarely a problem.

The necrotic spots look like either some calcium deficiency occurring or pH being off by some. I personally would transplant them to larger containers and mix in more lime into the new soil. Either way adding the lime to fresh soil will help them. I think the pots they are in now will be too small for soil style growing as they appear to be only about 2-3liter pots. I would move them to 1-2gal pots. If you had them in a hydro setup where they were getting continuous feeding, those 2liter pots would work fine but for soil growing it will strangle their growth and cut short the ability to get bigger yield.

Speaking of yield, there are so many variables to judging how much yield is produced, it is next to impossible to call. I know that when I had my 4x4 tent dialed in with 4 plants totally filling the scrog screen, I was able to yield around 20-24oz dry.
 
well my pens were supposed to be here today. The post office(why amazon chooses to use an outdated and worthless GOVERNMENT ran institution like the post office to send there packages is beyond me) said they delivered it to my house at around noon....got the text at 1ish saying it was delivered went and looked for the package at around 3 and its not there........post office will be calling me tomorrow....I doubt that will happen.....Just venting....sorry......

I want to transplant them tonight.....they are in 8in pots now.....I want to put them in 10.5 inch pots and mix in 1.5 tsp of lime in each pot to combat the ph problem.....would that be ok or is that too much......or should I just wait until they need to be watered again as I have read that its good to water them right after transplantation......
 
Well since I don't know where my pens are and I had some free time I went ahead transplanted into 10.5 inch I think they are 2 gallon pots and also mixed in 2 tsp of lime in each one to help there ph issues. I'm hoping that helps. So I hope to see healthier plants in a few days......
 
After 24 hours after transplant they look almost worse to me.....is this something thats gonna get worse before it gets better. Like the lime needs time to sweeten the soil......just wondering......again I transplanted into 2 gallon 10.5 inch pots and added 2 tsp of lime to each pot while I was mixing the soil before the transplant......I dont think I did anything wrong....hush said a healthy tsp of lime before and work it in the soil but I think that all got washed off when I watered(I didnt leave enough room for the water to pool) so this time I added exactly tsp to the soil so that should be about a healthy tsp(to me thats a heaping tsp)...... here are some pics....

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I have some cal mag 3-0-0 I know I am supposed to stick with a nut line and thats it. But I saw this and it says its specifically for using reverse osmosis water and Im using that. So Im gonna be patient and wait till tomorrow and water them and give them some of the calmag too......just everything Ive been reading says its a calcium or magnesium def. and Ive already gave them lime so giving cal mag to me seems like common sense they have calcium def....and I have cal mag....one plus one equals two....is my thinking wrong on this?
 
Changes you make will not show in the plant it's self for 72 hrs. Your issue is not a Calmag issue like many say on the net, it is a PH issue that has showed it's ugly head. Your issue is Lockout, not a deficiency. Necrosis if you will.

Necrosis: (death of cells or tissues) is not a disease, but rather a symptom of disease or other distress the plant is experiencing. This symptom appears in many forms, from dark watery spots on leaves or fruit to dry papery spots that may be tan or black. Portions of the plant may appear yellow or wilted, indicating a systemic disease that leads to cell death. Disease may be a common cause of necrosis, but weather-related problems, water quality and availability, insect activity and nutrient deficiency also may be factors.

The more additives you add, the more issues you are going to have. Plants also appear to have been over watered which is contributing to your wilt.





I would drop ALL nutes and use properly PH'ed water at around 6.7 to 7.1 and keep it the same every time you water until these have bounced back. If not, good chance these are dead before they ever hit flower.
 
Ok.....will not use any more nutes until I see them being healthier.....keep in mind they were just transplanted less than 72 hours ago...so they might also have some transplant shock too.....I just felt them and they do feel moist but not wet.....so I guess Ill wait till the soil is dry....then I will give them a good soak. I am using water I buy from the grocery store(they sell those big water cooler bottles now) so I use that. I figured that it would already have a good ph because it is filtered water. So I hope that this is gonna fix it....man this sucks....
 
Just because water is filtered does not mean it is going to have a proper PH, and you won't know what it is until it has been tested.

I am "guessing" you'll see it is around 7.5 or higher.
 
Hell my tap water is was hovering in the range of 7.1-7.2(I live near 2 rivers and have a water treatment plant litterally 15 min. away from me....so we have good water Ive been wasting 6 bucks on water damn it......and even though there is no chlorine in the dear park water that doesnt matter to me atleast because the grow big would kill all the goodies in the soil anyway....hell with it and it saves a trip to the dreaded grocery store......
 
You can see the purple/red streaking has improved so I think I'm on my way to getting that fixed.
 
Had some time real quick....here are other photos of my girls.....well I have one confirmed girl and I believe one male......just waiting for you guys to tell me so I can throw it away.....I know patience is a virtue but if 2 out of 6 are showing preflowers then the others cant be that far off from sexual maturity.....am I wrong in thinking this? To me, compared with the last burst of pics I posted they look over all healthier. Do you guys agree? Penny for your thoughts. Also since they are in fresh soil I havent been giving them any other nutes, just water not going to either until the ph issue as completely resolved. They are all around 15in

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If I am understanding the alternate nodes thing on sexual maturity then I believe all my plants have reached that stage......its a bit fuzzy(the pic but you can make it out, the branches arnt growing right across from each other, one is like .5 to an inch above and across from the other.......im probably doing a horrible job explaining that.......here is the pic that confirms they are ready...... so since I am getting the ph issue under control can I flower now or should I wait......just curious.....thank you guys for taking the time to read.....

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Overall they look much healthier and the water only seems to have got them back on track. Personally I'd wait another week then flip and make damn sure they are on the rebound fully, but yeah much much better.

That said, I would switch over to your bloom nutes for this next week and get them ready to explode. 1/2 strength Grasshopper and ride that out until you start to see a tiny bit of yellowing on the very bottom leaves closest to your soil.
 
That plant looks male but another angle would be nice just to verify.
 
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