Contactor

[Smokey Mcpotster]

Where can I get a contactor for my light? Not having any luck locally. when I google it, it came up with ones for europe, not the states. The ones for europe have 2 plug ins w/ the contactor. The ones from the U.S. were DIY ones. I don't want to build it myself. Any ideas?

 

[DynaGlideGuy]

howdy Smokey,
wondering if I can help ya here but I am not quite sure whatcha trying to do? would you mind going into a little detail for me?

PM me if youd like
Best Wishes
"P"

 

[Smokey Mcpotster]

Sorry, my fingers don't type what my brain is thinking sometimes.

To run a timer for my hps light, I should use a contactor to run the timer. I've been told/read that timers will burn up because of the surge of power it takes to start a hps light.

 

[DynaGlideGuy]

Timers will have a amp or current rating on them as well as every other electrical device. So first add up your total load (which is amps) and make sure that timer can handle it. As for surge worries, alls you need is a good surge protector, This too will have a amp rating.
Hope this helpped
IF not please ask

Best wishes
"P"

 

[Smokey Mcpotster]

okay now I'm confused. I was told that there is a high draw of electricity to start up the light. Without the contactor the timer will burn out, (fire risk). So if I bought a 10 amp timer, I'm okay because my light runs at 5.5 amps?

 

[Old_SSSC_Guy]

Do you mean a relay? A standard HID light can draw twice its amps to fire the bulb, and you can use a relay to turn on the ballast from a different power source. Most hydro shops sell some sort of light relay, a couple of common ones are the C.A.P. High Power Relay and the MLC 4a Lighting Relay (on Amazon for $250). FWIW, its often cheaper to just get separate timers for each light and just have them turn on in sequence. Relays/contractors can be mandatory if you are firing up 2-## 1000 watt lights running on a single 240 volt circuit. I've always preferred to run multiple light setups on a 240v circuit because at start-up you draw only half the amps than when you run at 120v.

A decent grounded timer can handle 15-20amps, and a 1000 watt system pulls about 9 amps. The fire risk comes in when you try to put 2 1000 watt lights on one 15 amp circuit, or using only one 15 amp timer. Everytime the lights turn on you spike a danger amount of power, over the amp rating of the timer.

If you are talking about a timer for up to 1000 watts you are ok with a good quality 15 amp grounded timer. All timers show their amp rating - the closer you get to that limit the more dangerous it gets, especially at start-up time.

 

[Smokey Mcpotster]

Thanks guys!! I only have one light. I'll pick a quality one up. I read about those a while ago, must of missed the multiple light part. Or maybe they were talking about cheap ones.

 

[Old_SSSC_Guy]

Yeah, plus there are a lot of timers out there that are 2-prong (always use a 3-prong grounded timer) and which are only rated for only 6-10 amps total. They are fire hazards and just not worth the drama the $5-$10 saves you. Go to a Lowes/Home Depot and get a 3-prong Intermatic timer and forget the rest... heh...

The 2-prong timers are should not be sold at all, much less used in a grow... Very bad mojo. Just my opinion...

 

[DonJones]

You do have a momentary amperage surge, but even it it is twice, it is of such a short duration that it is NOT dangerous because it doesn't have time to heat the wiring which is the fire danger from overloading a circuit. (Incidentally the current rating on an exposed wire in the out doors goes up astronomically. The aluminum wire from the transformer to the mast in overhead wiring is less than 1/4th the size as the aluminum wire that runs inside of the conduit to the main breaker box and they don't overheat or cause fires. On the other hand underground service uses the same size wire from the trans former to the meter because it can't cool as well.)

Momentary surges of twice or even three times the rated capacity of a circuit are normal in some circumstances and create NO safety or fire problems, although they can damage motors and/or electronic devices.

If you have the proper size breaker for the wiring and the breaker is functioning properly, you can NOT overload the circuit enough ot cause a fire before the breaker trips. However, if a breaker consistently trip, determine if you are overloading the circuit or if your breaker is going bad. Usually breakers loose their current carrying capacity as they strt failing, but not always.

I think the term you were looking for was controller rather than contractor or contactor either one. Controllers are either relays of electronic switching devices.

Good smoking and Happy thanksgiving.

 

[Old_SSSC_Guy]

Your are right DJ (all veterans are right, regardless) but my logic is more simple. When you try and run 2 1000 watt lights on a 15 amp circuit, they will trip the breaker when the lights start - and when operating will still be sucking 3 amps more than the breaker is rated for. When you put your hand on the timer or feed line of the circuit and its more than gently warm - you have a unnecessary problem. While it might not be against electical theory its just not necessary to take any risk at all using pissed off electrons in a wet area.

I guess to me its more a case of not over-reaching and being safe rather than working at the maximum limit of any device. Anytime someone mentions a contactor/relay the zen is that they are dealing with higher amps than 'normal', you know?