Just starting to flower, what now?
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THE BROTHER'S GRUNT
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Let that lady keep on budding that is the only thing she can do. Got any pics?Lou said:
Hick
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mornin' lou...
you must be in the southern hemisphere?..It still seems quite early for your plant to be flowering, since "your" summer has just started(longest day of the year was Dec 22). BUT..with the pending light hours steadily becoming shorter daily from noe through June, your plant should continue flowering without problem.
Was it/they started indoors prior to going out?..
I ask bcause if vegged under long light hours(24/0 or such) once placed outdoors under shortened hours(16/8 or such) sometimes, that induces early flowering.
you must be in the southern hemisphere?..It still seems quite early for your plant to be flowering, since "your" summer has just started(longest day of the year was Dec 22). BUT..with the pending light hours steadily becoming shorter daily from noe through June, your plant should continue flowering without problem.
Was it/they started indoors prior to going out?..
I ask bcause if vegged under long light hours(24/0 or such) once placed outdoors under shortened hours(16/8 or such) sometimes, that induces early flowering.
Cakes
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Feed her plenty. Use a fertilizer that does not have a lot of nitrogen in it. You might want to use a fertilizer that has NO nitrogen in it.
When you buy fertilizer, you can tell if it has nitrogen in it by looking at the three numbers on the bottle. The first number is always the nitrogen number.
it might say 3-2-1, or 10-10-10
and both of those would be more nitrogen than you want
you want one where the first number is zero or some other number that is very much smaller than the others
if you have old manure around>>>and i mean OLD dried up crumbly stuff, then a tea made of that will have the right nutrients. Soak a gallon of the manure in a big bucket, like a five gallon bucket. or use what ever containers of course. Leave it soak until the water gets nice and colored. Then pour it on. you can strain the manure out but it is okay if you pour it on the soil along with the tea.
Give your plant fertilizer water every time you water it.
When you buy fertilizer, you can tell if it has nitrogen in it by looking at the three numbers on the bottle. The first number is always the nitrogen number.
it might say 3-2-1, or 10-10-10
and both of those would be more nitrogen than you want
you want one where the first number is zero or some other number that is very much smaller than the others
if you have old manure around>>>and i mean OLD dried up crumbly stuff, then a tea made of that will have the right nutrients. Soak a gallon of the manure in a big bucket, like a five gallon bucket. or use what ever containers of course. Leave it soak until the water gets nice and colored. Then pour it on. you can strain the manure out but it is okay if you pour it on the soil along with the tea.
Give your plant fertilizer water every time you water it.
Hick
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'scuse me cakes...but if you keep adviseing everyone to fertilize every watering, you are going to burn someones plants plumb to hell.
A dilluted formula every watering may work, in some cases, but full doses of nutes, especially chemical nutes, are more than most require or can utilize.
So often .."less is better"...it's much easier to add more nutrients at the sign of a defficiency than it is to remove excess nutes after plants are burned.(almost impossible outdoors in the ground)
A vegging nutrient (high in nitrogen) is good for the first couple weeks of flowering, it provides the extra "N" needed during the early stretch and reduces early 'yellowing' in flower.
A dilluted formula every watering may work, in some cases, but full doses of nutes, especially chemical nutes, are more than most require or can utilize.
So often .."less is better"...it's much easier to add more nutrients at the sign of a defficiency than it is to remove excess nutes after plants are burned.(almost impossible outdoors in the ground)
A vegging nutrient (high in nitrogen) is good for the first couple weeks of flowering, it provides the extra "N" needed during the early stretch and reduces early 'yellowing' in flower.
Cakes
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I tell people what has worked for me. I use full strength nutes 99% of the time. I have even used chem nutes during somke grows.
and as for waiting for signs of deficiency, what most often happens is that the poor little plant just doesn't grow. It will sit there and it will get a bit more pale over time and yes, a great deal of time later it will eventually yellow but by then it is a month or two months down the road and the window for success has passed.
I may eventually burn someone's plant to hell? hell no. Fertilizer water will not burn someone's plant to hell if they prepare it full strength. It can burn to hell if they prepare it WAY OVER full strength. If a properly prepared full strength solution is used and it is too much for the plant, then what will happen? the plant will show signs the next day but it will be slight signs, the signs will be noticable but the plant will not die overnight. there will be plenty of time for the grower to notice it and research it and find that plain water is needed for a few days and then the grower will probably cut down on the nute solution strength after that (perhaps that grower will have put in Lots of chem pellets or some of that lime i see recommended sometimes and so the full strength nutes may react adversely). but for the other 99% of beginner growers - full strength nutes and frequent waterings are a very good idea.
and a little advice to you personally>>your advocation of administering plenty of N during bud may account for the huge stretch you say you experience. My plants have never stretched like that.
a little N is good for those who have a large amount of sativa in their strain, since sativa has such a very long budding period. But it is rare for beginners to have acquired those strains.
and early yellowing during flower is not something that happens to my plants either, probably since I usually have a healthy colony of soil organisms producing enough N to keep that from happening. But some people like to let the yellow happen. They claim it provides a smoother smoke. The absence of N is just that, an absence of N. And N is flammable and so it may be that less N is a good thing when one wants a slow burning, smooth smoke.
and as for waiting for signs of deficiency, what most often happens is that the poor little plant just doesn't grow. It will sit there and it will get a bit more pale over time and yes, a great deal of time later it will eventually yellow but by then it is a month or two months down the road and the window for success has passed.
I may eventually burn someone's plant to hell? hell no. Fertilizer water will not burn someone's plant to hell if they prepare it full strength. It can burn to hell if they prepare it WAY OVER full strength. If a properly prepared full strength solution is used and it is too much for the plant, then what will happen? the plant will show signs the next day but it will be slight signs, the signs will be noticable but the plant will not die overnight. there will be plenty of time for the grower to notice it and research it and find that plain water is needed for a few days and then the grower will probably cut down on the nute solution strength after that (perhaps that grower will have put in Lots of chem pellets or some of that lime i see recommended sometimes and so the full strength nutes may react adversely). but for the other 99% of beginner growers - full strength nutes and frequent waterings are a very good idea.
and a little advice to you personally>>your advocation of administering plenty of N during bud may account for the huge stretch you say you experience. My plants have never stretched like that.
a little N is good for those who have a large amount of sativa in their strain, since sativa has such a very long budding period. But it is rare for beginners to have acquired those strains.
and early yellowing during flower is not something that happens to my plants either, probably since I usually have a healthy colony of soil organisms producing enough N to keep that from happening. But some people like to let the yellow happen. They claim it provides a smoother smoke. The absence of N is just that, an absence of N. And N is flammable and so it may be that less N is a good thing when one wants a slow burning, smooth smoke.
Hick
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...
and "lime"...you say lime is the cause of yellowing ?..or cause the ferts to "react adversely"" ? and cause burning?..Care to explain that one?..
lime is used as a buffer for ph, and provides magnesium and calcium...
..."every" DAY..??...MG and other chem ferts will most certainly burn plants...and burn them to a crisp. This forum alone has several incidents of it.
"THE" one most often made mistake of new growers is overwatering...
and "lime"...you say lime is the cause of yellowing ?..or cause the ferts to "react adversely"" ? and cause burning?..Care to explain that one?..
lime is used as a buffer for ph, and provides magnesium and calcium...
Cakes
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Hick said:
Yes. every day. And "several" incidents out of the many 1000's of posts which are at this site is a small percentage indeed.
I am like you, I have MANY posts under my belt. I do not know where you posted but I like to specialize in helping beginners and this is due to the overwhelming legions of unanswered questions I have seen and also due to my first year I tried gardening. I read a respected garden book, followed it's directions to spread one inch of manure AND NOTHING GREW. I then began to experiment and I have fed the living bejebus out of my plants and they have grown like wildfire.
I have a great sadness for the people who post asking for advice about what to do and their primary complaint seems to be that their plant is two months old and it is 2"-4" tall.
Hick said:
I believe problems with overwatering stem from improper soil content and drainage. I will say one last time that I water my plants HEAVILY and in every watering, I give full strength nutes and they grow very well.
Hick said:
I think you are misconstruing the word buffer. if one uses a great deal of organic material in the original soil construction, then what is there to buffer?
I have added cautions about the use of lime because of it's alkalinity. It's use depends on the medium that one is applying it to. It can be a powerful catalyst because of that alkalinity, nutes can get locked up and some lime is not easily flushed due to the different grades it can come in. I do not believe it is to be recommended wantonly to novices and a great deal of that hesitancy may stem from the fact that I have not actually used it. I do, however, know enough to occassionally offer the advice to take great care when one firsts begins to explore it's use.
I did not say it caused yellowing, you are mistaken and that may be because you are recalling a post I made in another thread and so you do not have the text here to consult. I did say it may react with other soil additives and I said that because of it's caustic catalytic nature. And I used the word "may" because it is the truth that I believe it "may" enable or disable other nutes given the right circumstances.
and as a side note, since you brought up the calcium issue, my thoughts on it's use have undergone evolution, from negative since it has been reported to lower potency to positive because of it's transport abilities in the brain and in plants..there have been other issues too...
Perhaps I will have more positive advice to give when I have had a chance to experiment with it myself. I certainly hope so because I do believe there is benefit to be had from it's use. And even though I offer words of caution when it seems appropriate, I do not say "don't use it" but sometimes I do say, "be careful", and "look into this" because that is what I have to give right now.
Hick
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....1000's of posts that have nothing to do with fertilization. "Over fertilization" isn't common?..it doesn't happen if mixed according to instructions?...
lime is neutral..7.0 ph....it is not alkalin..it is not acidic..
"Buffer"..I'm useing the term to mean reduces/eliminates a wide range of ph fluctuation....it will keep your medium at or about neutral if applied in appropriate quantities.
..
.."organic materials" will always remain in an acceptable ph range??..
beside the fact that few, if any beginners, "construct" their own soil. Most go right to wally world or cosco.
..you're correct. You didn't say "yellowing"..you implied the lime could be responsible for "burning"....Possibly by keeping the ph at a point that is acceptable to "full strength" nutrient uptake?....would that be the "adverse" effect?
You are obviously an educated person with some experience, but it seems that "your" findings and experiences contradict greatly, many decades of experience, advise and proven methods used by growers from all around the globe. I just find it "almost" inconcievable that all of them are/were wrong for so many years and you are right. ..I don't doubt your sincerity or your success with the methods you describe,(I don't think you're in here purposely misleading ppl) but somethings I do question as being "good" advice for everyone in general.
...
the "number of posts" has little to do with anything..."quality" is what we prefer.
We appreciate your willingness to help beginners. (as long as it is helping) and look forward to your input, even if it is often "out-of-step" with the general growing community.
or perhaps, just perhaps cakes simply has a hearty , hearty, hearty strain. Such as one from any random Humboltd grower, especially those ones that have a yardfull of the most hearty, healthy, potent strains available just about anywhere 
dank specialist
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i use nuts in my water everytime. my little lady likes it a lot. although, i do use bat ghuano every 3 weeks...
dank specialist
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lol bat poo bad for the plant?? haha where do you do your research.. my plant LOVES the ghuano and i give it plenty of potassium ... she smells soo good
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