Mixing nutes

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My plants have been experiencing some deficiencies, predominantly Calcium. It has been suggested that this has been caused by how I mix the nutrients. I have a water butt which I fill with tap water weekly. I then add phosphoric acid to lower the ph of the water to 5.5, which I use for topping up reservoirs and new batches of nutrients.

When mixing up a batch of nutrients, I fill a container with the appropriate amount of water, then add A, stir the solution, then add B,stir again and add the other additives such as Voodoo Juice and B-52. I then allow this to sit for 2hours to give the buffers time to work before adding to the reservoir. I always mix about 10% more than I need so I can top up later. When doing a nutrient change like this, I always thoroughly clean out the reservoir with a solution of H2O2. I monitor the EC of the solution around every 2 or 3 days and top up with some of the solution I kept for the purpose. I understand I should not add A, then B to a solution of A & B as this may cause a nutrient lockout. I know this is AN nutes and most tend to use GH stuff but in principle am I doing anything wrong to cause a lockout?
Any suggestions anyone?
I don't know about the order of the AN nutes as I use GH. However, you should add your nutes first, let them buffer (I wait at least 12 hours) and THEN pH your solution. I do not understand pHing your solution first as your nutes almost always affect the pH of your water. Nutes generally lower the pH of your solution. If you are starting with a pH of 5.5 before nutes, what is it after nutes (I think it needs longer than 2 hours to buffer)?
When mixing nutes for soil, do I have to let them sit to "buffer" as well??
woody ive used AN's sensi i take it thats what you have i do it the same way as you sensigrow A then B same amont for both, when useing the sensibloom its the same again, only thing i dont do is PH the water first i dont see the point unless it's just for topping off with no nute's in
nute's then next day PH JMO
peace fruity
Roddy said:
When mixing nutes for soil, do I have to let them sit to "buffer" as well??

my m8 dose it like this his plant's look great after the buffer's kick in most of the time it dose not need PHing
THG, the 2 hours was a mistake, it should have been 24!

I should explain why I ph the water first.
I have a 55 gal water butt in my grow room. I fill it once a week, ph it, leave the top off for 24 hours to get rid of the chlorine then I can use it for topping up etc without having to ph it again.
I would rather ph 55gal once than ph 2 or 3 gal every day.
If that is what is causing the problems, I can easily change the routine.

I will probably have to get an RO filter, I really didnt want to but hey ho!!

PH your nutes to 5.8 once mixed, your very close to locking out Mg and thats a very common deficiency.
What is the pH of your water after you put the nutes in and they have buffered the water? I like to let my ph drift some--say from about 5.3 to 6.0--to insure uptake of all nutes.

Are you even sure that your water company chlorinates the water with chlorine? Many water companies use chloramine, which does not evaporate out, so leaving the water out 24 hours doesn't do anything. Have you checked the ppms of the water right from the tap and after 24 hours? If chlorine or chloramine is your only water problem, there are easier ways to deal with it than an RO, which wastes huge amounts of water.

So, I have just refilled the water butt with around 50 gal of tap water. The EC is 0.13 and ph is 7.6! It has been left with the lid off. If anything, this has stopped me drinking the tap water! So much for good clean Scottish water.
I also made up 10l (2 1/2 gal) of nutes, 40ml each Sensi Grow A & B.
Ph before adding nutes, 7.6, 10 mins after, 6.3, I thought my meter was broken so calibrated it and reading the same. EC is 2.03

I will recheck the readings tomorrow.
Peace W
woody if you PH after the nutes you wont need to PH again
It may work out that way Fruity.
Just hope this little test goes ok as I have never liked adding acid. Pity you cant just use the force, smile at it and bish bang boop, its ph'd!!!!
woodydude said:

So, I have just refilled the water butt with around 50 gal of tap water. The EC is 0.13 and ph is 7.6! It has been left with the lid off. If anything, this has stopped me drinking the tap water! So much for good clean Scottish water.

Your water sounds fine im not sure why you are saying that.
GD. Lets just say I have my reasons and propaganda annoys me!

Ph on the water butt after 24 hours, 7.4, EC, 0.14 at the top and ph 7.2 and EC 0.13 at the tap. I left the air stone out for the purposes of this test.
The 10l of nuted solution, ph 6.4, EC 2.13

I find it odd that the EC went up in both.
I just had a look around the water company website and it looks like Flouride is not addd to the water here, but chlorine is. Other elements that could be in the water are Iron, Lead and Manganese according to last years annual report.
After all that I think my procedure of phing my water butt will have to stop.

Peace all
opinion: crockpot cannaoil with central mason jar (lid loose on jar lid) walnut(omeg3 rich) oil is the nutz. also put the crockpot on HIGH no matter if it starts boiling or not. Makes a big difference for me ive found. it does the decarb itself that way. u can decarb before hand if u want. (no diff for me unless its really kinda wet). Paleos' comments at some sites are correct. HEAT is the key. LOW gets u about half the potency as HIGH does. 4-6 hrs on HIGH is the answer in my experience.
Im down to about a teaspoon at night. under the tongue, then ingest. will never lung it again. that includes vapor. if u cough, u lose. evolution: smoking to vaping to cannaoil. and its a myth that it takes 5 times as much to get a 'high'. WRONG. Its about a 1 for 1. smoking to ingesting the oil.
I mean, how many times have u tried to quit smoking? MANY, right? ok, so try cannaoil and you'll never go back and will ask yourself, what have i been doing to my precious lungs. Oh yea,water at 7.5 ph sounds good to me. Portlands water is 23 ppm. nice.
1: No idea what your saying

2:This thread is really old

3:Since it was brought back to life. Ppl way over complicate nutrients. Holy cow. I have never PH'd(in soil). GH2 part will/should rectify your PH. No waiting around. I mix micro, then bloom, then feed less than 15 seconds after I mix it.

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