blancolighter said:You don't need to adjust the PH of this solution, when you feed it, just mix the lime and water and flush it through.
blancolighter said:Alright, I had problems understanding alot of what you're asking, so I'll just try laying out alot of what I know and hopefully it will help.
First of all, I wouldn't ask for advice from your hydro guys again if they are telling you stuff like your soils PH doesn't matter. Thats silly, your soils ph, organic or not, is probably the most important thing you can keep track of in your gardening. It sounds like you've looked at the ph charts, soyou know that you really need to keep your ph in a sweet spot to properly absorb all the nutrients it needs. If you don't pay attention to your ph, you might as well not even feed your plants.
Ok first off, let me ask about this:
Now did you put that PH down directly into the soil, or did you mix it with water to bring the waters ph down? If you put it directly into the soil, you should start flushing now, because straight PH Down like a 3 or less on the PH scale and would definately keep most every nute from reaching your plant. If you mixed it with water first and got your proper ph in the water, then watered the plant, then all is good.
Also to answer your question in the quotes, no it wouldn't add to its acidity. Watering with a PH of 6.9 over as long period of time will not build up to be 6.7 or anything, it will stay at 6.9. However, you should be aware that your soils ph can and will flucuate, so you always gotta keep track. For example, when peat moss breaks down, it becomes very acidic, so a few months into a potting mix, your ph could start dropping from that.
Alright, let me explain PH practices a bit now. Now alot of premade soils have dolomite lime in them as a PH buffer. At about a tablespoon of lime per gallon of soil, you soil should stay in that 6.5 range. Now alot of premixed soilds have lime in them, but often its not enough. Fox Farms Happy frog soil for example has lime in it, but its ph is 5.5 out of the bag, unacceptable for weed growing. Another reason you always gotta check.
Ok, so its good to have something in your soil to help control the ph, but thats only half the battle. If your soils PH is 6.5, your work isn't done. Watering 6.5 soil with 7.5 water will eventually bring the soils PH up past 7, so you gotta put into your soil what you want your soil to be. This means whenever you water that 6.5 soil, make sure you're watering with water PHed at 6.5, this way your PH shouldn't stray on you. Also, when adding nutrients to your water for feeding, PH the nutrient solution when it is all mixed together ready to give to your plants, then adjust the ph accordingly.
Now I know you keep stressing organic and are worried what PH up and down do to organics. First off, PH up and Down, is safe and fine to use and not a worry that its not ortganic. This being said though, General Hydroponics makes actual organic PH up and down solution, as well as a few other companies. Also, homemade remidies like lemon juice and vinegar are some good organic alternatives.
Also, I mention testing the soils ph alot. Someone already mentioned in the thread how soil probes don't work, and thats generally correct, so heres what I do instead. First, I get a few gallons of water, all spot on the PH of 6.5. Next, I satuate the soil with the water, so its just drenched, then I let it sit for about 20 minutes. When I come back I carefully add a little more water to the soil untill water starts flowing out the bottom of the container. I collect that runoff water and PH it. I personally use a 6 dollar liquid PH drop test kit and it works great. So the PH of this runoff water is your soilds PH. If the soils PH is too high or low, I use those other gallons of PHed water to flush through my soil untill my runoff reads 6.5. Once my runoff reads 6.5, I wait 20 minutes again and do a final PH test and repeat steps if necessary.
Hope this helps.
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