Prepping for first grow! :)

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puffnpaint said:
dude, just relax and keep it simple man. lol i see it comin, you`re gonna be in there with them all the time checkin every ten minutes. i think we probably all do it the first grow or 2.

You can see it coming from a mile away ROFL

I'm going to try to be good though. :D
 
hey dont psych your self up man, its important not to overthink, and be doctor, and over nruture your plant. remember its a very hardy plant, a weed, it is not that complicated, its important to read. Read books on plants, how they function, grow, and even root. its not that hard just educate yourself and, read the plant, shell tell you what she needs.Most often a new grower will react to every little change, constantly changing things and adding things. Remember it takes time to see results, learn patience. You dont wanna send it into a tailspin by doing too much too fast, one amendment at a time, and see how it reacts. Just a few pointers! Along the way if youre stumped this site is here to help new growers, achieve success.and share advice. Dont be scared to ask! but remember true success comes from educating yourself on plants and plant functions. How do you know what to give her, if you dont know what she needs?
 
Thanks HighBrixMMJ

I'm trying really hard to not get worried, and when I first started this thought process I told myself; "Well it's a freaking WEED.. it must grow easy enough" .. then I see lots of nute burn, nute lacking, light too high, light too low... all that in other threads lol.

I think I have the entire process sorted, .. how long do I go from the humidity dome to a 5gal bucket? I think once roots start to show yes? And then, I go to the bucket but keep it under veg.. then let it grow, train is with LST / FIM etc untill a point, then 12 /12 HPS lights. Changing res once a week and watching all levels.. careful not to over adjust (big noob / rookie move) .. And watch them but don't make crazy changes.

I think I'm getting this.

Thank you all so much. Curious, does this site accept donations?! :D
 
Also don't let all the different adjustables run you crazy. Most of those things are for dialing in the grow for perfection. If you get it going and give it the minimum light, min nutes, and min water, it will most likely still go to the finish and produce smokable bud, But as you get the hang of it and learn what the plants like, you will start adjusting things and dialing it in to go from just completion to growing some really decent bud. :)

We do accept donations... But you have to grow them first :hubba:
 
i dont know the answer to that as I dont use humdity domes for seedlings, nor heat mats. but for my clones i keep it on and mist leaves with water, keep it humid under the dome, til roots start then remove!
 
Hushpuppy said:
Also don't let all the different adjustables run you crazy. Most of those things are for dialing in the grow for perfection. If you get it going and give it the minimum light, min nutes, and min water, it will most likely still go to the finish and produce smokable bud, But as you get the hang of it and learn what the plants like, you will start adjusting things and dialing it in to go from just completion to growing some really decent bud. :)

We do accept donations... But you have to grow them first :hubba:


Thanks for the words! Yeah the adjustables are what are getting my mind the most surely. I just want to find a good feeding regiment. I was going to use GH 3 part system, CaliMagic, and some type of folier spray. Also, how about H2O2? I've seen a lot of people use it, and a lot saying it's not needed. I don't think it's needed, per say, if I'm fully cleaning the res once a week. Curious of opinions.

Wish the site took donations, because I would gladly donate. :)
 
HighBrixMMJ said:
i dont know the answer to that as I dont use humdity domes for seedlings, nor heat mats. but for my clones i keep it on and mist leaves with water, keep it humid under the dome, til roots start then remove!

Yeah, I'll be taking the dome off once they root and look like they won't get shocked by air. I'll probably open the vents for a couple of days and ease off dome feedings for those couple of days. Yes I'll spray the inside of the dome with water, and maybe some folier spray. I watched a really long video series the other day, and it helped my thoughts out a lot.



I really learn best through the video tutorials. :D
 
The nute brand you chose is a popular brand that works so no mistake there. Finding a feeding schedule is not as difficult as it sounds but you really have to find out what the plants like as opposed to a set schedule. I always recommend that when using synthetic nutes(which is anything other than organic) You will want to use the schedule that the manufacturer gives but cut it down to 1/4 of that for starting out. Then when you mix that into your water and let it mix in for a few minutes, then check it with a TDS meter(ppm or EC both check TDS. I like the Bluelab pens) and see what numbers you get. For starting seedlings, I use around 200-300ppm, then each week as I add in or replace nute solution, I raise the ppm by about 150-200ppm by increasing each of the 3 parts some. This will take a little experimentation but you will quickly get the hang of it and if you are off my numbers by some its no problem. Continue to increase each week until you reach around 700-900ppm and hold at that (you could go higher if you want or if you notice that the leaf tips are starting to burn some then back it down to the previous numbers, but typically that is a decent range).

Once you reach flowering you will start increasing again until you get to the plants' limit. I usually don't go higher than 1200-1300ppm. Just a little scheduling to get you started :)
 
Thanks Hushpuppy, that was all incredibly helpful!

Question(s):

Should I get both:
-Bluelab PPM Pen
-Milwaukee pH55 Waterproof pH Tester
$116.00 Total

Or should I just get this:
-GroChek pH & TDS Combo Continuous Reading Meter
Features

Displays pH & EC simultaneously
Adjustable setpoints
Space efficient
Two parameters with a single instrument
Advanced electrode technology
Simple operation and maintenance
Ready to use
Includes pH electrode, TDS probe, grounding bar, calibration solutions, screwdriver for calibration, 12 VDC adapter, and instructions

-$135

EC and PPM are kind of "either or" from what I've read. I like the way the all in one works too
 
if your using a seperate rez, id get the continuous reading one for hydroponics. If your rez is under your plant and its hard to run the electrodes down there id get the pens. H2O2 is generally only used when the roots start to brown indicitive of root rot. It will kill the bad bacteria and help whiten them badboys up again!
 
EllisD said:
Yeah, I'll be taking the dome off once they root and look like they won't get shocked by air. I'll probably open the vents for a couple of days and ease off dome feedings for those couple of days. Yes I'll spray the inside of the dome with water, and maybe some folier spray. I watched a really long video series the other day, and it helped my thoughts out a lot.



I really learn best through the video tutorials. :D

Remove the dome as soon as the seedlings have poked their head through the cubes. IMO, a dome keeps it too moist once the seedlings are up and encourages things like damping off. Do not give seedlings any kind of foliar spray--they do not want or need it. They will not need any kind of nutrients for a couple of weeks. When cloning you are going to want to keep the dome on and foliar spray, but not with seedlings.
 
Thanks all!

Pens will work for me. :)

Also, THG:
When cloning you are going to want to keep the dome on and foliar spray, but not with seedlings.

Cool beans! Yeah this is where I saw the idea of foliar spray and dome was on clones. I'll take the dome off as soon as seeds peak up through.. thank you so very much :D
 
I think everyone is right about not over thinking it. I would go in to it expecting that you will make mistakes and not expecting your first grow to be the best. I'm making tonnes of them as we speak on my flowering kush but making changes to avoid them on my seedlings. I think it's inevitable that something will happen. Might be bugs, heat, nutes, ph, space, bad timers etc. all of which I have encountered with this grow.
 
Indeed, thanks for those words WrEkkED.

I'm going into this, reminding myself that:

1) The biggest amount of money being spent is going towards mostly stuff that will be used for years to come. So I won't be wasting my investment.

2) If I at least make "ok" product, and do it good enough, I can stop paying HIGH prices to sustain myself forever.

3) Worst case scenario, I buy more seeds or get more clones... and start over. Sure I may waste $50 on some seeds, but at least I can keep on and try again.

4) I can report ph, ec/ppm, temp, pics, nute regiment etc, all right here where such awesome and helpful members will assist me the best they can. I have free teachers, with massive experience..

I just got funds tonight! Now I'm going to make sure of what I get and where I get it (buying seeds tonight so they hurry up and get here).

Will chime in later with my seed purchase and other thoughts etc.


Thanks everyone. (Now open up a donation spot ;) )
 
Question before final choice of purchase. Should I get 2ft x 2ft T5 fixture and bulbs, or just a good MH bulb for my first bit? I know we settled on MH to start, but if that's the case, can anyone please point me out a proper MH bulb on plantlightinghydroponics.com?

This is my current ballast - hood - HPS bulb:
-600W Sylvania HPS Mogul Base Grow Bulb
-CAP LumenAire 6 Inch Air-Cool Grow Light Reflector
-CAP ValuLine 600W SW Ballast
 
Is that a digital ballast?

I wouldn't go with the 2' bulbs unless I went with the PLL-55 dual tubes.
 
The Hemp Goddess said:
Is that a digital ballast?

I wouldn't go with the 2' bulbs unless I went with the PLL-55 dual tubes.

CAP ValuLine 600W SW Remote Ballast

-You can run either MH or HPS
-CAP BAL.600VL ValuLine Ballasts feature an aluminum magnetic core
-ValuLine cases are powder coated galvanized steel, vented to provide cool operation
-ValuLine ballasts have a vibration dampening system for noise reduction with a separate capacitor compartment for cooler temperatures. USA made capacitor for long life
-All CAP ValuLine Ballasts can be run at 120 or 240 volts; no rewiring is necessary
-All CAP VakuLine Ballasts come with a 120V power cored; optional 240V power cords are available
-600W ValuLine ballast will run either 600W M.H. conversion or H.P.S. bulbs
ValuLine ballasts carry a 5 Year rebuild or replace manufacturers warranty




...and as I'm copying and pasting this info I see something I didn't notice before: "600W M.H. conversion"

I think this bulb will work ya?
hxxp://plantlightinghydroponics.com/hilux-600w-enhanced-spectrum-metal-halide-grow-bulb-p-3138.html
 
This is a magnetic ballast. If you get a MH bulb, it must be a MH conversion bulb--different than a regular MH bulb. Digital ballasts will run either (without one having to be a conversion bulb).
 
...and as I'm copying and pasting this info I see something I didn't notice before: "600W M.H. conversion"

I think this bulb will work ya?
hxxp://plantlightinghydroponics.com/hilux-600w-enhanced-spectrum-metal-halide-grow-bulb-p-3138.html

Did you catch that last part THG? Or just happen to think it was my signature? Just curious :D

Should I try to get a digital ballast? Spend a little more on that area?
 

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