Bubblegum grow

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its important to have a little dry time but not long maybe a day, as the roots will go in search of more water thus forcing them to grow! let them stay dry too long though and its gonna damage the roots! its a pretty fine line but you should be able to figure it out! you definately dont want to over water either, it will yelow and like hush said will start damping off and die.
 
made up it absolutely has no reflection of its authors actions or beliefs as I do not condone nor partake in breaking the law. Period.
 
Got the hygrozyme and water bubbler today. Eveything should be much happier with healthy water.

My temps are running in the 84 range at dirt level so I assume I'm closer to 90 at the top. I can touch the cooltube and leave my hand there, it doesn't feel that hot. The air in the room my tent is in is 77. I was wondering if I should add another 220cfm fan inline with my 440cfm fan or have a seperate exhaust for the cool tube and one for the tent, or have the 220 sucking in and 44 sucking out.

Edit: I should mention, that since I burnt it (by the fan not being on all day), that all growth has been green. The plant isn't showing me any signs of distress. As of right now my carbon filter isn't hooked up but I will have to soon as it's starting to stink pretty good.
 
I would but my computer is in the shop. This ones so old I can't hook my camera to it!
 
you should be fine with the 440 cfm hooked to the cool tube with your size tent. i wouldnt worry about a 220 coming in, just open the fresh air inlets at the bottom of the tent, this should be plenty if you need it cooler then add ac outside the tent so cooler air is drawn in. the tent walls should be sucking in a lil bit(passive), not poofing out. it seems you are at optimal temps to me, the dirt on top will be a little warmer due to the light shining down on it. you can cool your feed down a lil bit but you dont wanna shock it with too much cold, to help cool it off, as long as theres no signs of distress then youre golden!, shell tell you when she needs something. the best thing for you to do is read about plant function and what they need to survive and how they function so you can play god to her and prevent any of the defficiencies from happening. prevention is key. especially with pests. I use an additive called tanlin, while a lil pricey its a great organic diomataceous earth pesticide that basically kills the bugs by turning to crystals in there stomachs and cutting them up on the inside and killing them, it can be used up to day of harvest, and is safe for humans and pets alike! i could only find it on the internet. keep your eye on her and check for bugs daily, the last thing you want is an infestation, the key is catching it early. if you do the tanlin just add it to your feed, and make up a spray bottle of it, use it in soil and as a foliar feed. remember when foliar feeding to pay attention to the underside of the leafs where the stomata are. thats how they absorb things! so green mojo friend and welcome to indoor growing!
 
I was wondering if I should be Ph'ing my water/ water fertz when using soiless? My water is 7.0 from the tap.

Components:
Sphagnum peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, composted manure, wetting agent, starter nutrients, calcium enriched.
 
we normally dont ph in organics unless you notice the plants looking like theyre having ph problems, in organic the microbes help to buffer the ph. that being siad if you have a low microbial herd then it may not buffer itself as needed and may give you ph nutrient lock out, EJ makes a natural up and down powder, each is abot 13 dollars on amazon or ebay, but you willl need a ph pen to check your ph, they are also available on amazon or ebay for around 30 dollars. I would not suggest using other ph adjusters, as they will kill microbes. hope fully you inocculated the soil with some additional mycorrhizae, if not you should do so. also available by EJ and on amazon and ebay for around 15 dollars. if you read the ferts with a ph pen youll notice the ph is pretty low once all mixed up, mine usually reads like 4.7. the only time i had issues with the ph not buffering by itself after in the soil, was when my soil wasnt properly inocculated with mycorrhizae. both endo and ecto. Hope this helps!
 
oh yeah and to truly check if theres a ph problem i over water til theres some runoff out the bottom of the pot and I take that reading using the ph pen, it should be somewhere between 6.3-6.8.
 
I just fed the kush today actually which is now showing magnesium deficiency, and the ph runoff was around 6.

I had a nute burn so I flushed and I guess flushed the magnesium with it. haha... o boy.
 
yeah you can add some cal mag or some epsom salt to correct that, I generally dont flush with organics, i just live with the nute burn let them recover. flushing too much leaches the soil of much needed micro and macro nutrients, like the kind you just encountered, flushing is more for chemical nute burn. IMO can you post a pic?
 
Going to move the seedlings to 3/4 gal (8") pots today. I'm a firm believer in allowing the roots to go wherever they want. Its also a pain to keep them watered. I have been watering every morning in those jiffys, which I feel is just too much. Im just waiting for my water to finish the 24 hr bubbling before transplanting. Will be adding hygrozyme to the water before transplant.

I'm also wondering if throwing the seedlings under the hps, with the t5 as well for an hour a day would be beneficial or just burn them. Anybody try this technique? (this would mean my kush would get an hour of hps and t5 also. They are 2 weeks from seed, but only 9 days old.
 
still too small for your hps, id wait til they at least get a full set of leaves, meaning 7-9 blades per leaf. then you could try that... but i find the T5's are good enough and hps is not really necessary til flower! not to mention the heat and expense of running them. your plants should flourish under T5's. mine do!
 
I have the light about 3/4" above them. They have really taken off in the last 24 hours since getting their first taste of hygrozyme. since I transplanted them, is there still a need to give any ferts for an additional 2 weeks?
 
dont give ferts until the small round leaves, called the cotyledons turn yellow and shrivel up. these leaves provide all the food they need til they shrivel up and eventually fall off. Any ferts until that point will burn em.
 
Can I feed it something from my earthjuice to fix that?
 

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