New/First Grow (Top 44)

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Day 13:
AM:
• Post-Adjusted PH: Mister with 6.3 (waiting for PH down for reservoir)
• Temperature Range: 66-82
• Humidity Range: 38-74
• Lights: CFL’s (7)
• Air: no fan, humidifier
• Observations:
o Site 1: Not much change, still growing and catching up to site 2 after adding the extra CFL
o Site 2: Not much change except leaves are expanding in size and width.

I noticed slight purple under some leaves. I misted my babies a little more woke up this morning and it was gone... Could it have been since I dunked them for a second in the 7.2 ph reservoir, they didn't like it? The mister I'm using until the PH adjuster comes is 6.2. I've been spraying them down 5 times a day since its hydro and they can't retain much water.... GET HERE MAIL!!
 
Looks like you got it together. Good luck on your first hydro grow. :farm:
 
Day 17 (March 4):
PM:
• Pre-Adjusted PH: 4.5 (I realize this is low, it went down over night badly somehow, and the company only sent me PH DOWN not up and down like I asked… So they’ll make do with mist and low ph for a day or so)
• Post-Adjusted PH: Mist with 5.6
• Temperature Range: 71-86
• Humidity Range: 27-52
• Lights: CFL’s (7)
• Air: Fan blowing lightly on them and humidifier turned toward them to keep them cool under the amount of CFL’s which actually do put out a good amount of heat
• Observations:
o Both plants are doing well. One plant is suffering from minor nute burn or low ph combined with the CFL being entirely too close. She’ll be ok. They are both looking healthy and started to really take off the last three days. I realize they are young, but I added Miracle-Gro (30-10-10) about 1/3 strength, and they nearly doubled in size in three days. KEEP ON TRUCKING!

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Pic 2.jpg


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Pic 4.jpg
 
AM:
• Pre-Adjusted PH: 6.3
• Post-Adjusted PH: 6.0
• Temperature Range: 68-82
• Humidity Range: 24-55
• Lights: CFL’s ([7]- 4 blue, 3 red)
• Air: Continuing with the humidifier and fan. The fan isn’t oscillating, but it is being blown off the lights, and since the lights move in the wind, the air is directed all different directions. This serves 2 purposes: remove hot air from plant tops, make stems stronger (even though not oscilating). I realize if the fan is constant they will grow like palm trees at 170 degree angles off the ground. I keep rotating the pots during the day as well.
• Odor Control: Other than the lingering humidity smell, nothing really yet. I’m prepared though.
• Observations:
o Both plants look healthy. Like I said the one had minor burn of some kind, but it is under control.
• Questions:
o How on earth is my ph so up? I mean, I tried house hold vinegar and lemon juice, but they didn’t last for more than 12 hours with retaining the ph down. It would go from 7.8 to 5.8 back to 7.6 in a 12-24 hour period. I got PH down, and even that is struggling. I applied it to the reservoir about 4 days ago and made the ph around 5.2 (low yes, whoops) but just a couple days later, the ph is back at 6.3. Is there any way to control this better or is it the nature of babies in vegetation? Kids, they just don't want to listen.... :rolleyes:
 
I applied it to the reservoir about 4 days ago and made the ph around 5.2 (low yes, whoops) but just a couple days later, the ph is back at 6.3. Is there any way to control this better or is it the nature of babies in vegetation? Kids, they just don't want to listen.... :rolleyes:

With hydro that's to be expected I'm afraid. I was readjusting my PH every couple of days :)
 
Just how are you distilling your water? Do you have a TDS meter to measure your distilled water? I have found that by using RO water (TDS = 0), that ph is much more stable. I also dont use any nutrients for the first two weeks cause I dont want to burn those baby roots. Good quality water and a clean system will do wonders keeping ph under control.
 
Sadly, no ppm meter yet. After this grow, and when summer starts I'll have some money to burn, but till then it is learning and make do. I can tell you it is extremely high though. I've realized what appears to be a lockout in Mg, Fe, and some other trace nutes, so I added some epsom salt to help counter act the high ppm which is causing this. We'll see how they do in the next couple of days.

Some indications that made me see these nutes were lacking came from: http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html . What it said was,
"Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.

Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.

Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.

Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.

This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.

If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.

Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Zinc

Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.

Zinc Deficiencies

Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.

Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched."


The thing about stem failing to elongate was the biggest indication I had. I am keeping the light pretty close which was why I thought they might be slow to grow and possibility to why they burned slightly, but now after reading that page it helped me to discover some things. Hopefully they flourish now!!! GREEN MOJO, where are ya:D !
 
StonedCold said:
o How on earth is my ph so up? I mean, I tried house hold vinegar and lemon juice, but they didn’t last for more than 12 hours with retaining the ph down. It would go from 7.8 to 5.8 back to 7.6 in a 12-24 hour period. I got PH down, and even that is struggling. I applied it to the reservoir about 4 days ago and made the ph around 5.2 (low yes, whoops) but just a couple days later, the ph is back at 6.3. Is there any way to control this better or is it the nature of babies in vegetation? Kids, they just don't want to listen.... :rolleyes:

O.K., now that you've got the proper PH adjuster, Did you clean out the reservoir before adding the new PH down? You want to make sure all of the vinegar and Lemon Juice is out of your system.

If so, here is what to do: Mix up a fresh batch of nutrient solution and adjust the PH to around 5.5. Check it 12 hours later. It may drift up to around 7.0 (depending on the nutes you are using) If is up, add more PH down until it is 5.5 again. Check it again in 12 hours. If it is high again, adjust it again, this time get it down to 5.7. It should start to stablize. Over the course of a week, it should slowly drift up as the plants use the nutrients. Try to keep it in check and let the PH slowly drift up to a maximum of 6.1 over the course of a week.

At the end of the week, mix up a new batch of nutrient solution and start it over agin.

This is exactly how I do it and I've been having very good results.
 
StonedCold said:
The thing about stem failing to elongate was the biggest indication I had. I am keeping the light pretty close which was why I thought they might be slow to grow and possibility to why they burned slightly, but now after reading that page it helped me to discover some things. Hopefully they flourish now!!! GREEN MOJO, where are ya:D !

Don't worry about the Height of the plant. You don't want an "elongated" stem. What you want to shoot for is short, bushy plants. Otherwise, you will end up with just sticks with leaves. Right now, the plants I have are only 2.5 inches tall, BUT they have 7 nodes and the branches are starting to form. In 2 more weeks I will start LSTing and it will explode with growth and I will have many branches from which to take clones. Then when it flowers, I will have nice FAT colas and not long skinny ones.
 
Well, after the other fiasco, I made sure to fully clean out my reservoir. I used bleach, but knowing it leaves behind a residue that isn't good, I rinsed thoroughly and scrubbed to get everything last bit of whatever was in there causing that build up out.

Like you said, I'm adjusting the PH with the solution I got for the job. Hopefully, it will level out in the next week or so like you said. It seems to be slowing down, because it didn't spike .5 ph in 24 hours, which it has been averaging.

When I switch to flowering, will the PH be dragged down much the same how it is being pushed up in vegetation? Just wondering in advance. Thanks!

Also, how often to you drain the reservoir and redo nutes? Every other week seem about right?
 
Yes, ph will be dragged down during flowering much as it is being pushed up during vegg.

Yes, water change every two weeks should do just fine. I change water every 4 weeks but thats pushing it...
 
It has been a while since my last update. I was gone for about 10 days. Unfortunately, I suffered a loss. The sole remaining baby has suffered nute burn, and has since been readjusted with less nutes, ph corrected water and such. I can honestly say, I'm surprised it looks as good as it does (even though not great) after 10 days of no supervision. This is my first grow, so even if I watched it everyday, it could have turned out that way hahah. Anyway, pictures and things to come. I'm back!
 

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