What is wrong?

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hey dman, they are in smart pots so they can't really get rootbound.
I did the ph runoff and it looks like to me it is around 6.8-7.2. Is that fine?

I think hitting them with N is a good idea, just wonder if the tea would be quicker. So strange they both are like this. Thank you everyone for your ideas. They better pull out of it soon.
 
It would seem if it was pH lockout, ALL would be affected, but that's what it looks like.

The really baffling thing is that you've grown this before with no issues. With the way those leaves are pointing up, I'm thinking heat, or is this normal for the WW?

I'm really stumped here.

Wet
 
I am stumped as well.......I don't even see that much fade at week 10 of flower. Not sure how only one plant cld get locked out.
 
Hi Rose! First off, don't panic. You may lose a few days growth, but they'll be fine.

Traditional feeding plans usually discontinue nitrogen shortly after flowering begins. So you don't think to add more nitrogen. But I've found in organics that nitrogen gets eaten up pretty quickly, especially if you've got a healthy bacterial community. Don't be afraid to add some nitrogen at this point. If you're using bat guanos, a tea with some Mexican guano should give you the boost you need. But a real quick fix would be some blood meal. You can do a top dress, but a drench would take effect quicker. A few spoonfuls in a quart of water will be more than enough and you'll see results pretty quick.

Don't worry- you're a great grower and they're gonna be fine.
 
Thank you BBFan. I don't have any but will go get some. I have some Roots organic buddah grow. Maybe I didn't use this at the end of veg like I usually do. I made a note that I fed, but i didn't say what. This has the guana, worm castings soy, kelp, molasses, and yucca. Should i go get the blood meal is it faster then what I just typed?

I am breathing again, thanks to all of you. Medicine woman is my fav and only good night pot.
 
Run off isn't always the best way to check PH.

Dry soil in the oven at 185F/85C, once completely dry take 50 grams of soil and mix with 200ML of DI'd or RO'd water or any ratio of 1:4 soil weight:water weight. Shake for 20 minutes and then meter.


Only other possible problem I can think of would be some sort of infection, but I'm not leaning toward that case. My guess is nutrient lockout due to elements in the soil or soil PH.
 
Rosebud said:
Thank you BBFan. I don't have any but will go get some. I have some Roots organic buddah grow. Maybe I didn't use this at the end of veg like I usually do. I made a note that I fed, but i didn't say what. This has the guana, worm castings soy, kelp, molasses, and yucca. Should i go get the blood meal is it faster then what I just typed?

I am breathing again, thanks to all of you. Medicine woman is my fav and only good night pot.

That should work fine. I have Humboldt Organic nutes that I will sometimes use in a pinch. I'd say give it a shot and see how it reacts.
 
Ok, done. Thank you I will see if there is any difference in a couple of days. The ph just didn't seem the thing since it is only the two..Thanks so much. Couldn't grow this stuff with you all.
 
I'm a newb, so no advice from me. Just wishing you GREENER MOJO on those two ladies. Hope it all works out Rose!
 
good luck rosie! im no help just love for the mj
 
Thanks you guys, i don't see much difference this morning, they are being blasted with fresh air at the moment. I appreciate you stopping in Ruffy and Ston-loc and for the mojo, we need it.
 
Are you on a well? Could this time of year draw down the well? By the well being more empty, could you possibly have more concentrated micro minerals in your water? Just thinking here. Has Medicine Woman been grown at this time of year before?

I hope the Nitrogen helps.
 
I hope the Nitrogen works. I really don't know squatt about organics. I have to apply what I do know. I didn't take into account that the Mychorrizae(it's easier to type microbes) would buffer the PH. It is certainly weird that just one or two would suffer PH issues when none of the others have, but not impossible, that is why (for hydro especially) I likje to eliminate that first.

Now having learned a little about the nature of microbes from BB, I can see the logic in it being a Nitrogen def. ;) I suspect it will take a few days for you to see the plant start to turn around as it has to go through all the natural steps to get to where it is needed. On top of that, the plant being in flower is less concerned with feeding its leaves and more concerned with feeding its flowers, so it will probably take longer anyway. Green grow mojo
 
Rose, I beleive the fastest way the plants absorb nutes is through the leaves. You take that tea you were talking about from the shop and some of that roots organics grow to it and areate it or just let sit for 10 mins to an hour(no longer) then foliar spray the two plants. there is kelp in that mix but a good concentrate of it with molasses will also help build your plants immune system. just go light on the dosage.

when you tied it down did you crack it? I've done that and then the plant will get a little yellow and then dark and then all the leaves go yellow because the nutes aren't making it to the plant because of rot. I lost half of one of my outdoor ladies this year because of it. I just made here healthy. make them healthy. some green mojo for your lovely ladies
 
Hey, Rose, I'm doing Canna Bio line with compost tea once n a while and I didn't PH through the whole thing because it's organic and I heard that you don't have to but then I read on the website that you kind of do--they're a bit vague and I would love to get to the bottom of that one...but, anyways... I had the identical leaf problem as with your medicine womans and thinking it was a nitrogen deficiency I started mixing up a solution of Age old Grow (super high nitrogen) and fish emulsions, PHing is to 6.5, an giving it to 'em once every three days... after two feeds like this, no more leaves dropping or yellowing. Also, some plants require more nitrogen than others so that could explain why your other plants aren't dropping leaves least that's how I explain my AKs doing it but not my Chemdawgs. You can read about it in my grow journal thread (shamless plug) but anyways green mojo to you and good luck
 
Rosebud said:
Maybe a dose of folier N? I know they are flowering, but this seems urgent.
Do it now!

i am organics !

i am 100% its a N def showing and the PK an micro nutes are probably def. too.

i go through this all the time with organics.

first off mycorrizea does not buffer the soil. it attaches to the roots , so the roots actually stretch farther lookin for food.
In your case all the food is gone so they need more.

As much of an organic freak i am , i would still recommend using a dose of instant food to fix this prob, cause by the time your food (blood , guano, tea, whatever) breaks down in the dirt an starts getting eatin ALL your bigger leaves will be gone.

She is still reachin for the sun so she is READY for some food.

The reason behind this mess could be many things.

The reason for such a big change would most likely be in your soil with the microbes (all of them , not just mycorrizae) some of your pots are full of bacteria activity and some of them aint. the more alive your soil is the more food they can process for your plant.
usually all the pots in the room will have close to the same results , but there is always that one that has a lot more/less bacteria activity.
When its hot in there , it causes the top 3/4 of dirt to dry out quicker then the bottom 1/4 an that itself can cause a big change in the bacteria activity in the soil.

So even if you got plenty of food in the soil , if the soil cant process it all then you will become deficient.

I think in your case , your soil is healthy and there just aint no food left in their to feed the microbes.

The only instant fix would be to go get some instant food. it dont matter if its MG 24-8-16 or advanced nutes with perfect "pot" numbers. in your situation its all the same.
Give her one or two full doses of "hydro food" (instant food , already chelated) then start back with your organics , and add a tiny bit of carbs (molasses) to help keep your microbes healthy. then by the time the instant food wears off the microbes will be creating new food for your girl an she will probably need full feedings the rest of her life too.



this is derived from more then an opinion. this it whats going on with your girl.





soil :chuck:
 
Wonderful information Soil, thank you. I don't think I agree with using mg anything, i feel it would kill my living organisms, am I wrong on that? When I clean out my pots after harvest I am always surprised by the soil that remains throughout the root structure. It would be really hard for me to handle anything bigger then a 5 gall smart pot, but maybe i do need more root space?

The good news is the integrity of the leaf has changed back to previous crash status. I really did lose a lot of fan leaves, not completely defoliated but over 50% of fans I bet. The color is slowly returning, barely visible, only an optimist could see it. ha. I dosed them again lightly this morning. Nothing is instant in organics, but it is the only way I can grow.

Hushpuppy, "On top of that, the plant being in flower is less concerned with feeding its leaves and more concerned with feeding its flowers, so it will probably take longer anyway. Green grow mojo"

I think you know a lot more about organics then you think. Thank you for your input, i appreciate it.

greenmentat I love organics and have never been concerned about PH and haven't needed to be. I think the general consensus is that you don't. It is interesting and I sure don't understand the microbes and nitrogen uptake, but i know the biodiversity in my yard is very fun and alive.
Thanks Moaky and bho. green mojo works.
 
I'm cosigning with Soil here, he is 100% spot on.

A shot or 2 of chem nutes isn't going to kill your micro herd. They just aren't that delicate.

I say this from experience also, since I've run into a LOT of deficiencys trying to get the mix right and used Jack's Classic for a quick fix till the organics could break down. Hasn't hurt a thing that I could notice.

For sure, N is the hardest. Not only for the initial amount added as a amendment, but when and how much to top dress so it's available at the right time. Even blood meal, which is pretty quick for organics, seems to take close to 2 weeks before you notice any effects.

Chems are like 'fast food', not good as a steady diet, but once in a while isn't going to hurt.

Wet
 
Well i know that are two types of N. NO3 and NH4 ( i think ). One has faster absorption.

Perhaps some more experienced grower ( guru :D ) can point a nice product for you to foliar with the one that has fast absorption.
 

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