Second grow

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Yeah it takes more then a single grow to dial in a strain. Now that you have some experience under your belt time to pop the real beans. You will find it much easier to figure out your problems only growing a single strain. Once you get several strains dialed in you can do multiple strain grows at ease.
 
:yeahthat:... when doing more then one strain IMO Good note keeping is KEY..all strains react diffrently on the strength on nutes..This makes for a stressfull grow..Good luck my friend..just subscribed..now get to growing those beans all ready..:giggle:
 
yeah you guys are right
although, im not sure what strain it was that I was growing
as far as I know, its my family strain, given to me by my cousin.
But other than that, hey, it could be anything.

Im hoping shell be ready for chop in 2 weeks. what are your opinions
 
ill check again tonight.
anyone got good pics of clear and cloudy trichs?
its hard to tell but i think its mostly cloudy
 
im waiting nearly three weeks now for the trichs to change colour form cloudy to amber!
when they change you'll know!
 
thedonofchronic said:
their weak looking clones for sure. alot of the leaves are turnin yellow and ****.. im hoping its only because their trying to grow roots...

Can he crop his grow? Bad idea?
 
Okay well... i tried to look at the trichs but bugs caught my attention.
theyre only visable with my scope, they look like beatle type bugs with a bunch of legs and theyre moving around on my leaves. maybe eating my leaves? so what do i do? Can i get rid of them? Will the bud be fine?
DANG
 
hum have you noticed any damage to any leaves/buds
anything that looks like little holes in the leaf?
they might be just be hanging out!
what colour are they?
 
i think they were blue
and its hard to tell my plant isnt the most proper looking in the first place.

so what when i harvest ill be smoking bugs with it..
 
this may help
Aphids:

Signs of an infestation:
Stunted, curled leaves. Aphids use piercing mouthparts to suck sap from the Phloem. Ants often accompany aphids (Ants help transport aphids around), and will also need to be controlled. Aphids secrete a sugar-like ?honeydew?, which make the undersides of the leaves sticky.

How to get rid of aphids:
Use sticky traps (i.e. No Pest Strip) for prevention and detection. Beneficial insects like ladybugs can be used to naturally control an infestation. A soapy spray (i.e. Safer?s Soap or detergent in warm water) can also be used to suffocate them.

Summary:
? Suck plant sap
? Cause stunting, leaf curling
? Leave honeydew deposits on leaves
? Ants in the grow room

Contributed by: Sniperman
Submitted: July 24th, 2004

Aphids: symptoms include curled or yellow leaves. Sticky honeydew residue on leaves, general weakness in plants.

Control: spray with a strong stream of water (during veg only). Sticky yellow traps. Alum foil mulch. Predatory bugs. Horticulture sprays. Most general-purpose garden spray r dusts, including pyrethrins, rotenone, and Malathion.

Spider Mites:

Signs of an Infestation:
Mites will first be noticed by the presence of small, discolored spots located near veins in the leaves. To see them, you will need the help of a 10X loupe, or a 30X Microscope. Mites use piercing mouthparts to suck sap. Mites will slow growth and attack the buds in advanced stages. The life cycle of the spider mite is closely tied to the temperature of the grow room; slow an infestation by keeping temp in the low 70?s.

Eliminating spider mites:
A ?No Pest strip? is very effective in eliminating them. Avid is a very effective systemic chemical control. A soapy spray will also keep their numbers in check (thoroughly coat underside of the leaves). Space plants out to minimize transfer movement between plants.

Summary:
? Suck plant sap
? 'Speckling' may indicate mites underneath
? Mites may appear transparent, black or red
? 'Bronzing' of the leaf is characteristic
? Webbing is present in advanced stages

Thrips:
Image by Sog: Thrip size reference

Signs of an infestation:
Thrips feed on new leaves of plants (and flowers); fresh leaf growth will deformed. A metallic sheen on leaves is one sure indicator of Thrips.

Sog "Thrip feces are easy to see with the naked eye; they show up as black spots on the leaves and stems of infected areas. Thrips themselves are a pale pinkish color."

Controlling Thrips:
Interestingly, Garlic repels Thrips. Cooler temps will slow down the life cycle, and blue sticky traps will trap adults. You can siphon them off by rustling the plant, and sucking them up with a shop-vac!
< tr>
Image by Sog: Silvered leaves
indicate heavy attack

Predator mites are also beneficial in the control of Thrips. Fine powdered Sulphur applied to the leaves will control them as well. A biological spray containing Beauvaria bassiana, (A fungus that grows and consumes Thrips) is also effective. Spraying the leaves with Chrysanthemum also kills Thrips.

Summary:
? Feed on plant tissue
? Rasp leaf surfaces and suck juices
? Heavily damaged plants appear silvery or gray
? Plants may be distorted, especially seedlings


Whiteflies:

Signs of an infestation:
Whiteflies are also sap-suckers. The top surface of leaves on infested plants become pale or spotted due to these insects feeding on the undersides of the leaves. Heavily infested plants will produce a buzzing cloud of flies if shaken.

The Whitefly life cycle is interesting in that the larval stage does all the damage. The larva will hatch and remain until it has quickly molted 3 times. Then it pupates and an adult emerges.

Controlling the Whitefly:
Insecticidal soap will take care of an infestation, as will the more toxic Diazanaon. Apply the soap (plus a wetting agent) to all parts on the plants, and both sides of the leaves. This will act to block the breathing pores and suffocate the pests.

Summary:
? feed by sucking plant juices
? mottled leaves indicate heavy attack
? may cause yellowing or death
? excreted honeydew may cover lower leaves, and black mold may grow on honeydew


Fungus Gnats:
Image by Ot1: Fungus Gnat

Signs of an infestation:
Fungus Gnats are attracted to soils that are rich in compost and nutrients. They lay eggs on the surface, hatching into larvae. Those larvae feed on the root tissue, including root hairs, and the outer cell covering of the root; often leaving only the central tube of the root. External signs include discolored leaves, and systemic plant failure. Fungus gnat adults will often run across the medium and may fly if the plant is shaken.

Controlling Fungus Gnats:
Pyrethrum aerosols, as well as placing yellow sticky traps all around the plant will help control the emerging adults. Gnatrol (containing natural Bt) is highly recommended.
 
no when you dry your weed,
any bugs will soon loose interest as soon as the buds start to dry up and will try to leave, if you hang your buds along a wire hangger you will see the bugs climing the wire to leave! put some sticky tangle foot paper/fly paper one each end to catch the little blighters!
if you have a bad bug problem and your near the end of flowering stage, its just easyer to harvest early of save your crop, and you wont ruin the taste of your weed with nasty chemicals.
 
thanks alot swiftgt
so your saying i should chop early maybe and catch all of em as theyre leaving or what lol?
their brown sorry not blue. so im assuming their mites?
what should i do? thoughts?
 
thedonofchronic said:
i think they were blue
and its hard to tell my plant isnt the most proper looking in the first place.

so what when i harvest ill be smoking bugs with it..

Yum protein! :rolleyes: No I'm just playin' with ya TDOC, it looks like swift posted up a pretty nice insect post maybe one of the descriptions will catch your attention! Hope they don't do any damage to your buds.
 
ok which plant are you seeing these bugs on?
do you see any damage that could be caused by bugs?
cheak all of your plants as soon as possable for bugs,
keep infected plants away from helthy plants if possable,
i wouls only harvest early if your on the last week or maybe second last week, but only in a emergency,
take some pics of the plants you have seen these bugs on and take pics of any damage you see
post them up and im sure we can tell you whats going on!
like i said though, they might be just hanging out on your bud not atacking it, pob coz they like it as much as you do!
 
i only have one plant going right now shes been in flower 6 weeks,
the last pics i posted are recent. these little bugs are only visable my microscope and are brown. theyre just moving around possibly eating.
so theyre not spider mites, i googled spider mites and theyre red so its not them...
just maybe theyre just hanging around.
i really hope their not doing damage...
 
There is more than one mite variety. The red mites aren't the worst. The brown ones do the damage. Do you have little white spots on the tops of the leaves? If so, then' it's spider mites. Google red mites to see the difference. I sprayed a mix of iso alcohol and water on all the plants I had with mites, top and bottom of all leaves. It slows their spreading down and doesn't hurt the buds. You need more drastic measures to get rid of them, But I don't recommend doing it during flowering, due to the chemicals and chance of hurting the ladies.
 

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